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Back to reviews in Italy
A six minute taxi ride will transport you from the piazza del Popolo up the hill to the door of the Hotel Splendide Royal. (I tend to measure all my Roman journeys from the Piazza del Popolo, as it is my favourite square in the Eternal City.) Inside, you will find a décor nearly as sumptuous as that of the churches for which Rome is so famous. Indeed, some might consider it ‘over the top’. I love it. Indeed, as soon as I walk in, I feel that an evening of jollity and extravagance is ahead. This 19th century palace was once home to Rome’s Maronite community (a Christian group from the Lebanon), so I suspect that once upon a time it was all slightly more restrained. But if, like me, you like your furnishings on the lavish side, you will now feel entirely at home here.
Notice, as you walk to the lift through all the gilt and marble, the large chandelier of Murano crystal. Have you seen it somewhere before? Why, of course – it was the chandelier used by Visconti for the ballroom scene of his famous film, The Leopard. I admired it again on my way to the hotel’s famous dining room, the Restaurant La Mirabelle. Is its presence here not a marvel? Surrounded by such artefacts, it was hardly surprising that, as I stepped out at the 7th floor, I was in the happiest of moods.
I went out onto the terrace for a glass of champagne before dinner – protected from the evening chill by an awning and by overhead heaters. And there before me was another good reason for high spirits: the loveliest panorama of Rome you will see. I think I must have been looking due east, for the top of the distant façade of St Peter’s basilica was directly facing me. It took me a quite a while before I could drag my eyes away from this glorious vista.
When I did go inside, I was in a room of considerable luxury. Sensibly, with so much beauty outside, numerous mirrors have been placed at strategic points. The napery was pink, the glasses were by Riedel and the white and green crockery was by Schönwald. I sat back in the elegant fauteuil (supported by an extra cushion) and watched as the waiters in their black ties and white aprons lifted silver domes at nearby tables. They were marshalled by the well-known Restaurant Manager, Bruno Borghesi, a charming fellow who worked at The Ritz in London some years ago. Mr Borghesi and the excellent maitre d’, Andrea Migliaccio Spina, ensure that the service at La Mirabelle is formal, courteous and absolutely proper – just as it should be.
I wondered what to choose from the menu, and then realised that there was no need to exercise the grey cells. For it was the Season of the Truffle, and there – on a separate sheet in front of me – were the glorious words, “Chef Stefano Marzetti suggests The White Truffle From Alba”. I was only too happy to accept his suggestion, which was a set meal of six courses, each including the miraculous fungus, for 150€. I knew that, with a chef of Mr Marzetti’s acknowledged skill, I was in for a treat.
The first dish was wonderful. Described simply as ‘crispy egg yolk’, it also contained duck breast, Brussel sprout, pasta and, of course, the truffle – each handled superbly and each contributing to a delightful complexity of tastes and textures. I thought this would be the highlight of the meal. But I was wrong. The following ‘praline of goose liver’, which involved pear purée, dry baba and the ubiquitous truffle, was at the highest level of culinary achievement – a masterpiece of rich, balanced flavours. Then it was a delicate stracciatella of burrata cheese with zucchini flowers, caramelle pasta with cream of chickpeas, veal with bacon and an ending of shortbread cookies with pear crème brûlée and ricotta cheese – all elevated by the addition of the magic from Alba.
As befits a restaurant of this distinction, the wine list presided over by Head Sommelier Simone Feracci is long and impressive. Prices run from 55€ for a white from the Trentino to 4,500€ for a magnum of 1992 Dom Pérignon rosé. Other bottles from its 900 offerings to catch my eye were: 1982 La Tâche (3,600€ - there are 15 other red wines from DRC), 1982 Mouton Rothschild (2,800€), 1986 Pétrus (3,400€), 2003 DRC Montrachet (3,600€) and 2008 Masseto (880€). The Assistant Sommlier, Alessio Bricoli, deserves my thanks for recommending a brilliant white from Tuscany. This 2010 chardonnay (Isola e Olena, Colleziona Privata - 115€) was exquisitely refined and superbly balanced, with discreet fruit, appealing minerality and an elegant structure.
La Mirabelle is a lovely restaurant, with comfort, luxury, fine food, a marvellous cellar, attentive service and spectacular views. For what more could one ask?
Hotel Splendide Royal, porta Pinciana 14, Rome 00187, Italy.
Telephone +39 06 4216 8838
Fax +39 06 4216 8870
Email: mirabelle@splendidroyal.com
www.splendideroyal.com
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
