Bown's Best - La Marina Restaurant, Santa Barbara, California, USA

CALIFORNIA

SANTA BARBARA

LA MARINA RESTAURANT

La Marina, Santa Barbara Santa Barbara has a special place in my affections. It was in this sunny, affluent resort north of Los Angeles that my ‘self esteem’ (as we devotees of chat shows have learnt to call it) received its biggest ever boost. A few years ago I was sauntering down its main thoroughfare – called State Street – in my Panama hat and pink summer suit. As if they had been carefully rehearsed, smiling lady after smiling lady stopped me and told me – all using the same word – that I looked very “dapper”. Charming people, the Santa Barbarans. I thought of their kindness as I set off for dinner in their grandest hotel, The Four Seasons Biltmore.

Since 1927, this Spanish-style temple of luxury and comfort has been entertaining the rich and famous amidst its 22 acres of manicured gardens next to the Pacific Ocean. It is a little outside the town, so I took a taxi for the ten-minute ride past the palm trees and the seashore. The day’s last games of beach volleyball were being played by the beautiful folk and the sun was beginning to think of heading for home. This gentle time of day, with its promise of a good meal ahead, always stimulates my appetite.

Two restaurants inhabit The Biltmore. I had chosen the more formal, La Marina. I settled into one of its capacious leather-covered armchairs and surveyed my surroundings. Baronial, I thought, as I admired the heavy wooden beams of the high roof and the supporting sturdy pillars. But this was baronial with a large measure of sophistication. Muted colours and discreet lighting did their work. Although I am fanatical in my desire to see every restaurant in the world equipped with white tablecloths (so that I can see the true colour of my wine), I had to admit that the beige ones here did tone in very soothingly with the brown of the waistcoats worn by the waiting staff. And I certainly approved of the good quality glassware, by Spiegelau.

Chef de cuisine Jesse Olsen turned out to be a most affable and intelligent fellow. It was a pleasure talking to him. And it was a pleasure eating his food. Nothing on the menu to startle the horses, but I appreciated the care with which the dishes were presented. I do like an attractive plate. I ate the five-course set dinner (including cheese) with designated wines – all for $95.

The opening lobster ‘club sandwich’ was a pretty conceit, and a good balance of tastes and textures resulted from partnering the crustacean with toasted brioche, tomato, crisp pancetta and onion relish. Then quail, lacquered with rhubarb and cinnamon. Next, the star of the show: really top class beef tenderloin, crusted with parsley and nuts and served with a truffle emulsion – wonderfully tender and flavoursome. The cheeses were initially disappointing, being far too cold. But, after a word with the Chef, some were found which could be served at the right temperature. A light and refreshing conclusion was provided by a dish of melon sorbet with almond sponge and a minted reduction of red pepper.

Santa Barbara County provides many of the wines in the cellar, with prices starting at $25 for a white zinfandel. France puts in a decent showing, with some tempting stars – like 1988 Latour for $625. My wines, of course, came by the glass and were chosen by the charming lady who combines the roles of maitresse d’ and sommelière – Barb McPolin. Apart from Italian muscat for the pudding, they were all from nearby Santa Ynez. She put a chardonnay (Zaca Mesa) with the lobster, but it was her choice of reds which really impressed me. The cabernet franc (with the quail) was very tannic, perfumed and made me purr with its tiny hint of sweetness (Drew Family Cellars). But if the cabernet franc tantalized, the sangiovese opened its heart with its dense, over-ripe black fruit (Stolpman). This was a glorious wine and was a delicious partner for the beef. (My apologies – I made no note of the vintages of these wines.)

I enjoyed my dinner at La Marina. Now I have another reason to like Santa Barbara.

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