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Back to reviews in Italy
If you look carefully at the photograph of your correspondent with the famous Manager of the Hotel Splendido in Portofino, Mr Ermes de Megni, you will observe that there is a tiny badge on the lapel of his jacket. I asked Mr de Megni what it meant. H
e explained to me that it signified that the Hotel Splendido had been awarded – by the prestigious organization, Leading Hotels of the World – the title of ‘Best Hotel in the World 2012’. No wonder my host was smiling! Of course, I was not surprised. For I have long admired this most exquisite of Europe’s luxury hotels for the truly impressive level of its hospitality. If you like everything to be of the very best, including the friendliness of the welcome and the courtesy and efficiency of the staff, this is the place for you. And there is another important reason to pay a visit.
The walls of the hotel bar are decorated with black and white photographs of those film stars and other notable folk who had stayed at The Splendido. And those pictures include one of your very own correspondent. The study in question was taken especially for the purpose by one of England’s most distinguished photographers, Jack Hill. You will observe that my portrait hangs below those of two famous cinematic thespians, Monica Vitti and Alain Delon. And now you know why I have a smile on my face. But most people at the Splendido smile most of the time, for it is a lovely hotel in a lovely setting.
With the sun shining its radiant best, it was clear to me once more why The Splendido’s location has been so popular for so many centuries. It looks over one of the prettiest little bays in the world. Monks built their monastery here. They abandoned it in the 16th century, not because they had tired of its charms, but because they were attacked too often by Saracen pirates. Eventually, Baron Baratta built his summer home on the same spot. Then the hotel opened in 1901. Before long it was crowded by persons of means and discernment. Winston Churchill, Rex Harrison, the Duke of Windsor, Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor – these and many, many more of the world’s finest have sought out a room at The Splendido.
My own billet was on the fifth (and top) floor of the main building. Room 494 was a ‘Deluxe Junior Suite’ (and therefore 2,051€ – 2,666€ a night, half-board for two, according to season). It was, like the entire hotel, pristine and sparkling. It was charmingly decked out with lots of white, splashes of marine blue and a floor of light stone. Through sliding glass doors was a loggia with wicker chairs and a table, and – I need hardly say – the view which is so loved by every visitor (pictured). The bedroom was about twenty feet square, and therefore had plenty of space for a wonderfully soft bed, an L-shaped sofa, a writing desk, a breakfast table and a ‘kitchen corner’ with a kettle, various pots and pans and tins of proper leaf tea. Lighting was supplied by 5 table lamps, a standard lamp and overhead spotlights. The television rose from a cabinet at the touch of a switch. It had the ability to play cds and dvds, although it took a visit from a member of staff to explain to this technologically illiterate guest how he could persuade it to play his discs of Elgar.
I liked the little conceit of hiding the safe behind a hinged picture: it made the apartment seem even more my very own. Not that I needed much to do that, once the contents of my various cases had been stored in the fitted wardrobes. Beyond this dressing area was the bathroom, where I found two wash basins, a large tub, a separate shower and a separate loo with a bidet – as well as lots of cosseting toiletries from Mr Bulgari. This was a bathroom for those – like me – who love their ablutions.
And The Splendido is also a place for those of us who love breakfast. Occasionally, it grieves me to notice that fellow hotel guests not only rush through this most important meal, but also dress for it in a way which suggests that they are addicted to the worst excesses of Casualness. There was little of this at The Splendido – and no wonder, for the terrace of the restaurant is a superb spot for one’s morning comestibles. And the comestibles themselves – all of them – are of the very highest quality. The friendly members of staff – including the 3rd maitre d’s, the dark-haired Fabrizio Vario from Sicily (pictured) and the light-aired Andrea Navone (pictured) and the charming waiter Salvatore (motto: “Trust me”) – brought to me pots of coffee, bowls of ice, my concluding cappuccini and servings of gorgeous scrambled egg with truffle and of delicious grilled sea bass with mushrooms. From the buffet, I obtained bowls of melon and strawberries and slices of a ravishing tart of raspberries and pineapple, dishes of Allbran with banana, slices of crusty bread and scoops of gorgeous marmalade. You will gather that I always start my days properly at The Splendido.
I present to you a picture of the maitre d’ Luca Calvia, smart in his spectacles. He presided over these happy occasions with skill and flair, and I owe him a particular word of thanks. The seats on the restaurant terrace were difficult for my back. Mr Calvia therefore ensured that a chair and a cushion from the dining room were awaiting my arrival each morning. Service at The Splendido is like that: kind, courteous and efficient.
After these wonderful beginnings, my days at The Splendido were spent either in pottering about its garden terraces or, after taking the hotel shuttle ‘bus for the five minute journey down the hill, in looking at the quaint sights of Portofino. In the latter I made it my habit to indulge in some ice cream and coffee at Il Molo by the water’s edge. These were served to me by the town’s famous twin brothers, Paolo and Matteo Giovannini, who are keen rowers. One of the pleasures of sitting at their family gelateria is in watching the little boats which come and go from the passing cruise ships, which like to send their passengers to enjoy an hour or so of the Portofino magic.
I was back at The Splendido for dinner – once again on the restaurant terrace, but this time captivated by the darkening sky and the twinkling lights down by the harbour far below. Now my comestibles were of the grander sort. Chef Corrado Corti takes the very finest ingredients and produces really good, traditional food which is entirely appropriate to these luxurious surroundings. I tucked in with gusto to a generous helping of beef carpaccio with black truffle from Norcia and Parmesan cheese, a classic dish which was executed very well indeed. Then came pasta as I like it – soft and yielding – in linguine with pesto, potatoes and French beans. This was a delightful dish, which you should not miss. Yet it was bettered by my meat, which was superb. This was as fine a piece of roasted rack of lamb as I have tasted – tender and really full of meaty taste. With it I asked for roasted potatoes and sautéed onions, and both were tip-top. I ended with raspberries in puff pastry with raspberry sauce – and excellent choice, because I love raspberries. (These four courses, for those not on the half-board arrangement, would be 122€.) This was a memorable meal, in which the magical setting, the good food and the correct, attentive service (napkins were re-folded) combined to produce the calming pleasure of harmony. And to add to that harmony, from the bar drifted the piano playing of Vladimoro Gatto. He has been tinkling the ivories here for over twenty years. You will be pleased to know that he has retained his love of bright and sparkling dinner jackets.
The charming 1st maitre d’ and Sommelière Maina Macrì (pictured) presides over a cellar offering 602 wines. It can provide a local white for 39 euros or the 2005 Pétrus for 9,250€. Her list is divided in two. In the general list are Italian, French and a few New World offerings. These bottles caught my eye: Krug Grande Cuvée (260€), Yquem 2003 (770€), Penfolds Grange 1999 (630€), 1997 Masseto (1,664€) and 1995 Luce (200€). The other list of “great wines and unique vintages” is all Italian, and runs in price up to 3,250€ for 1985 Sassicaia. Mr Parker’s marks out of 100 are given for each wine.
Into the Riedel glasses Miss Macrì poured for me the 2010 vintage of the Capannelle chardonnay, a big, oaked, out-going wine from Tuscany (43€, half), and a lovely red super-Tuscan, Montevertine, with the strength and fullness of black fruit to act as a proper partner for the lamb (88€). Thus did I eat and drink as well as I laid me down and slept.
“The Best Hotel in the World” is a remarkable accolade. But then, The Splendido is a remarkable hotel. Those of us who know and love this glorious establishment know that the title is fully deserved.
Salita Baratt 16, Portofino 16034, Italy.
Telephone +39 0185 267 801
Fax +39 0185 267 806
Email: reservations@splendido.net
www.hotelsplendido.com
Open: April to mid-November
Double rooms from 1,126€-1,291€ a night, according to season, half-board for two
Check the hotel web site for special offers
