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UNITED KINGDOM BERKSHIRE THE VINEYARD AT STOCKCROSS
I adore California. Sadly, living on this side of The Pond, I have to ration my visits – for the creaking frame dislikes half-days in aeroplanes. But when the yearning between the long-haul flights becomes too much... I go to Berkshire... There, a brisk 70 mile drive down the M4 from London, I find a Victorian hunting lodge. It has been much extended and the interior is now light and airy – in the Californian manner. Filled with good art, both traditional and modern, it provides food of high quality, so that a Michelin star twinkles over its roofs. Here, too, has been assembled the best cellar in the country for Californian wine. The staff is exceptionally friendly and highly motivated. This lovely place has been brought into being by Sir Peter Michael, creator of Classic FM and owner of the famous Californian winery which bears his name. It is The Vineyard at Stockcross.
The sitting room – complete with its own ‘Juliet balcony’ overlooking the gardens – accommodated quite easily a sofa (in velvet of dark purple), two chairs and pieces of mahogany furniture, like the writing desk. The bedroom and the walk-in wardrobe were reached through double doors. With the six table lamps and the dimmable spotlights adjusted to my taste, I was able to create a pleasing and restful setting for my afternoon dose. For this I always display the ‘Do Not Disturb’ notice. At The Vineyard, this is slightly more complicated than elsewhere, so allow me to share the secrets of the system with you. You need to press a button near the door, until a small light flashes. This means that a light is displayed in the corridor, telling the staff to keep away. Both the interior and exterior lights are extinguished automatically when you next open the door.
Bathed and carefully suited, I arrived at the restaurant, and was soon settling myself at a large round table (number 26) on the lower level. Wrought iron balustrades of a sinewy, Art Nouveau style add much to the appeal of this elegant chamber of creamy tones. Before me were Riedel glasses and crockery by Villeroy & Boch. The Restaurant Manager, Céline Chazot, a French lady who demonstrated both her charm and her efficiency throughout the evening, came over to ensure all was well – which, indeed, it was, with the smart waiters (like Emanuale, from Milan) going about their business. I felt comfortable and at ease. It occurred to me that much effort and care had gone into creating this environment. I sensed that a good meal was in prospect.
Pan roasted, diver caught, Scottish scallops, with white and green asparagus and lime beurre blanc, were cooked with remarkable precision and provided a most satisfying combination of tastes and textures. Carpaccio of beef fillet was carefully balanced by pesto dressing and cream of goat’s cheese. Then the lovely pink meat of the roasted Chalans duck breast brought with it a touch of the East – balls of duck confit, which had been coated in breadcrumbs and deep fried. And the best came last. I love my soufflés. And I love best of all a big soufflé, spooned out at the table for myself and my companion. This is becoming a rare beast, and I was told that the blackcurrant soufflé on the menu came in individual pots. But a great restaurant can rise to the occasion... A word with Céline Chazot, and a few minutes later there appeared a large and wonderful soufflé. Together with lovely liquorice ice cream, this was the perfect end to a fine meal. The Assistant Sommelier – an engaging, knowledgeable and feisty lady from Italy, Chiara Danieli – brought two brilliant bottles to me. The German Riesling was a delicate paean of praise to peaches and green apples, with only 7·5% alcohol (Brauneberger, Jeffer Sonnenuhr, spätlese, 2008 - £50), and the chianti was a big fellow, with muscles of leather, tobacco and damson (Vino da Tavola, Sanmarco, Castello dei Rampolla, 1995 - £98). This was seriously good drinking. I returned to the restaurant the next morning for a hearty breakfast (from which I can recommend particularly the bacon and the sausages). Then I left The Vineyard at Stockcross and set off back to London, pleased to have been, albeit briefly, to California – in Berkshire.
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ADDRESSES THE VINEYARD AT STOCKCROSS
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© Francis Bown 2003
Arriving in the Royce, I had a marvellous moment: I thought I had been transported to the Napa Valley. Believe me, this is high praise. The General Manager came out to say hello – so, of course, I took his photograph for your delectation. (Mr Hayden Bowl is from Rhodesia and is a thoroughly excellent fellow.) As I walked in I noticed the sense of space and easy elegance which pervades the whole property. I noted, too, the extensive, comfortably furnished, public areas and the abundance of really good oil paintings. Some of the latter are worth seeking out in their own right – like the large canvas by John Charlton over the main staircase, showing Mr and Mrs Lewis Priestman, out with the Derwent Hunt. Other works of art are so conspicuous that they cannot be missed – like the pond by the main entrance, surrounded at night by flaming torches, which is entitled ‘Fire and Water’ and is by William Pye. Very Californian.
My air-conditioned Deluxe Suite, number 211 (good value at £187 - £387 a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to the day of the week), was on the first floor, on the quiet side of the building. (The ‘B’ road which passes the hotel on the other side can sometimes get a little busy at certain times of the day.) This was stylish and comfortable accommodation.
I am normally totally averse to mini-bars, but here my small refrigerator was stocked with complimentary mineral water. This thoroughly good idea enabled me to enjoy several chilled bottles while I leafed through the selection of magazines provided and listened to (what else?) Classic FM on the wireless. Such thoughtfulness was also evident in the provision of a clothes brush, and one of the most comfortable beds in England. In the large bathroom, I found one wash basin, a tub of comfortable size, a bidet and toiletries by Molton Brown. 
And it was. Chef Daniel Galmiche, from Eastrern France, calls his cuisine ‘happy food’, and it certainly produced that emotion in this guest. He describes it as “fresh, light, simple, colourful and full of flavours”, classic French with influences from the Mediterranean and the Far East. His dinner menu is commendably short. Three courses are £70 and the nine-course tasting menu is £95. I chose four courses, and enjoyed every one of them. Each delighted both my eye and my palate.
I have already mentioned the excellence of the cellar. The Director of Wine, James Hocking, presides over one of the most impressive lists in Britain. When I tell you that it offers 48 dry whites from Germany, you will have a sense of its excellence. Prices range from £15 for a Tuscan sangiovese to £4,500 for 2001 Romanée-Conti and £20,000 for a double magnum of 1982 Pétrus.. But many bottles are in the £40-£80 range, and there are sections on red and white wines under £40. All the famous names are here – not least many from Sir Peter Michael’s own winery, like the 2000 ‘Les Pavots’ red Sonoma for £490. If you are a fan of claret from the great vintage of 1982, you might want to bring a few friends here for lunch and quaff all the first growths (Latour, Mouton-Rothschild, Lafite, Margaux and Haut Brion). The five bottles will cost £7,840. 
