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ITALY LAKE COMO BELLAGIO GRAND HOTEL VILLA SERBELLONI
The image of holy smoke is appropriate, because I had earlier been looking at one of the interesting paintings which line the hotel’s corridors. It was of a young server in church. Dressed in cassock and cotta, the latter edged with lace (as all good cottas should be), he was fulfilling the role of thurifer, for in his hand was a thurible, the receptacle in which is burnt incense at Mass. I wondered whether he might have been a member of the Bucher dynasty, for the establishment is owned by the Bucher family and Gianfranco Bucher is now the master of the domain. For your accommodation, I can certainly recommend one of the spacious and elegant Senior Suites, which are good value at around one thousand euros a night, bed and breakfast for two. I was in a Classic Double Lake View room on the second floor (385-455 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two). The ‘Lake View’ part of the designation is important, for you do not want to miss the pleasure of sliding back the shutters each morning to reveal one of the world’s most ravishing vistas. My room had air-conditioning, a high ceiling and lots of light. I judged its size to be 10 feet by 15 feet. Its colours were white, pale blue and gold. In the bathroom of primrose and brown marble were two wash basins, a bath tub (with a retractable washing line over it – a facility I always particularly like), a separate shower, a separate loo and bidet and a table and chair. These last two items make one’s ablutions so much easier that I would argue for their provision in every hotel bathroom in the world. After such eating and drinking, each evening I went towards the sound of music. And each evening the carpet had been rolled up and taken away – a daily ritual at the Villa – so that those couples with the talent and the inclination could glide across the parquet of the Drawing Room in time to the rhythms of the trio. Here I was surrounded by such a civilized and charming atmosphere that I had little inclination to leave for the Land of Nod. But eventually I did so, happy that the next day would be as pleasurable as the one which was now drawing to its end. The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni had given me a moment of ecstasy and many, many hours of peaceful contentment. Without doubt, it is one of the most delightful hotels in Europe.
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ADDRESSES
GRAND HOTEL VILLA SERBELLONI
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© Francis Bown 2003
Allow me to share with you a moment of ecstasy. I have just eaten one of the finest dishes I have ever encountered in Italy. It was an egg, cooked at 65 degrees Centigrade, served with pumpkin fondant, cream cheese and black truffle – the creation of the brilliant chef Ettore Bocchia – and the words ‘luscious’, ‘creamy’, ‘succulent’ and ‘gorgeous’ are swirling around my mind. Beyond the linen tablecloth is a panorama of surpassing beauty. The waters of Lake Como glisten darkly, as the lights on the opposite shore begin to wink in the evening mist. A tiny church, white and floodlit, looks down with perilous dignity from its perch, halfway up the distant cliff. Antonino Alberti, a fine sommelier of the Old School, hovers, ready for the moment when more of the white wine from Umbria needs to be poured into my glass. The trio in the Drawing Room begins a spirited rendition, careless of its limited forces, of Bolero by Maurice Ravel, and the hypnotic repetitions swirl about the restaurant like clouds of sweet incense. I am close to Heaven. I am at The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni.
Built in 1850 as a holiday villa, the location of the Villa Serbelloni – jutting out into the prettiest part of Lake Como – could hardly be bettered. Those of us who travel must be grateful that, in 1873, the building’s wings were added and the hotel (Grand, indeed) was opened. The gardens, too – of which I offer you a photograph – are delightful. I know nothing of plants and flowers and I am not tempted by tennis courts and swimming pools (the Serbelloni’s other outdoor facilities), but I can appreciate colour and form. I was happy, therefore, to find a seat and spend my afternoons in such gorgeous surroundings, when the only sounds were of the distant tolling of the church bell, the occasional humming of a passing ferry and the gentle lapping of the Lake water beyond the stone balustrade. 
This, of course, was when I could be dragged outside, for the Serbelloni’s public rooms – as I hope you can see from the pictures – are possessed of some grandeur. Indeed, on my arrival, I could not stop myself from sinking into a sofa in one of the saloons, next to a stone fireplace in the Renaissance style, and tucking into a large bowl of mango ice cream. 
From here I went down each morning to the breakfast room on the first floor. On no account miss a visit to this remarkable chamber (pictured). It is huge and magnificent, with white tablecloths, a parquet floor, crystal chandeliers and smart waiters and waitresses in white jackets. The excellent Antinino was in charge and ensured that all ran smoothly and well. From the buffet the following struck me as particularly good: bacon, scrambled eggs, crusty bread, melon, corn flakes, apple cake and croissants. Coffee was brought to my table in silver pots, as was delicious freshly-squeezed orange juice, and my dish of ice cubes, as usual, was my constant companion. My breakfasts at the Serbelloni were as I like them – long and leisurely.
The hotel has two restaurants. The Mistral has a Michelin star. But I confined my attentions to La Terrazza. Here I found the cooking of Chef Ettore Bocchia (pictured), as I have already observed, to be remarkably impressive. His cuisine is as it should be: based on the finest ingredients, which have been handled skillfully and presented with care. Service (orchestrated by the tall and charming Restaurant Manager, Francesco Sagliocco) is correct and attentive, and I was pleased to note that my napkin was replaced when I left the table for a moment. Wine is poured into good Italian glasses (made by Rona) and silver domes are lifted from the plates. My favourite table, in the corner with the best view, is number 39. Apart from the aforementioned egg, I enjoyed excellent pasta, in the form of basil and ricotta ravioli, which was a delight to both the eye and the palate, a brilliant chateaubriand (of Swiss beef) with magnificent roast potatoes and roasted peppers, and a vanilla soufflé with raspberry sauce. (These four courses were 136€.) 
The wine list, with 390 offerings, is largely Italian and French, and its prices are attractive - ranging from 20ε for the house white to 1,950€ for the 1995 Le Pin and 2,696€ for the 1996 Pétrus. Other bottles to catch my eye were: 2005 Ornellaia (150€), 2005 Sassicaia (150€), 1995 Margaux (572€), 1995 Haut Brion (350€) and 1997 Yquem (458€). Advised by the knowledgeable Mr Alberti, I drank the always reliable Cervaro della Salla from Mr Antinori’s Umbrian estates (good value at 35€) and what my guide called “the burgundy of Sicily” – a ‘hot’ wine, with lots of red fruit and a touch of the burgundian farmyard nose (Etna Rosso, Pre-philloxera, Don Peppino, Tenuta Terra Nera, 2006 - 99€).
