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BELLAGIO, LAKE COMO

GRAND HOTEL VILLA SERBELLONI

Search the world as you will, I wager you will not find a more romantic setting for an hotel than that enjoyed by the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni. For 130 years it has stood on the promontory where Lake Como divides, dispensing discreet luxury to those rich enough and discerning enough to make their way to the lovely little town of Bellagio.

Actually, its central part was built a few years earlier, in 1850, as the holiday villa of a patrician family. In 1873 the wings were added and the hotel we now see was opened. With such a history, I expected the public rooms to be impressive – and I was not disappointed. It was pure delight to walk down the main staircase of white marble and arrive between two giant gilt candelabra at the entrance to the sitting rooms. Then, in the larger of these two sumptuous chambers, ensconced in an easy chair by the towering Renaissance-style stone fireplace, I sipped hot coffee and gazed out at the lake (the kindly waiter having, at my request, turned off the canned music).

But yet more glory awaited. Whatever you do here, do not on any account breakfast in your room. For then you will miss one of the great hotel experiences of the world. As early as you can manage – I found 8.15 was early enough – go to the first floor breakfast room. From the buffet you will enjoy decent bacon and excellent fruit salad – but that is not really the point. The room, dear friends, it is the room. It is vast. And your prompt arrival will ensure that you will share it, not with the 250 or so it could easily accommodate, but with a mere handful of fellow guests.

And it is not just a large room: it is a magnificent room. Three massive golden chandeliers are repeated into infinity in the giant mirrors at each end of its prodigious length, and cherubs disport themselves among flowers on its high ceiling. If you share my memories of those black-and-white Hollywood films of the 1940s, in which the heroes and heroines were invariably greeted by Adolphe Menjou – playing the dapper manager of the grandest of grand hotels – and shown to their table in the palatial restaurant, then you will have some idea of how thrilling it is to breakfast in this setting of Classical grandeur.

My apartment was also on the first floor, although its dimensions were more modest. Room 152 was 310 to 360 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two (depending on the season). This is not at all expensive for an hotel of this standard, so – if the pennies are plentiful – you might be tempted to go for one of the suites at 800 euros. I peeped into number 133, to admire its columns and antique furniture. Still, I was comfortable in my own billet. Soberly and traditionally furnished – with pieces of marble-topped reproduction furniture, off-white wallpaper and green patterned carpet – it was air-conditioned, and boasted 12-foot ceilings and (most important) a view of the lake. In the bathroom – also traditional – were two wash basins and separate compartments for the loo and shower.

Not all the delights are inside, however. Outside are swimming pools, tennis courts and lakeside gardens. In the last I wandered in the sunshine along a quiet path in search of a seat on which to do a spot of reading. To my right luscious greenery climbed steeply upwards; to my left, on the other side of the balustrade, the waters of the lake lapped gently to and fro. On my chosen bench I sat and dozed in warm contentment, before I meandered back to dress for dinner.

I say ‘dress for dinner’, but it is many years since I used to heave around Europe that extra suitcase full of wing collars and patent leather shoes. Still, at the hotel’s Terrazza Restaurant it is required – and I applaud the requirement – that gentlemen wear jackets, so the least I could do was to sport a decent suit and a shirt and tie. Such sartorial effort is fully worthwhile here, for a lovely atmosphere is created by the smart waiters in their white jackets, the dark green wrought iron chairs, the white tablecloths and the Strauss waltzes from the trio. Service, orchestrated by assistant maitre d’ Marco Roscini, was correctly formal. And, through the windows of what is, in essence, a long conservatory, were – as always – the views of Lake Como.

38 year old chef Ettore Bocchia sent to my table some excellent dishes. Foie gras terrine stuffed with dates, with apple chutney and toast, was prettily presented and full of the right tastes. Pappardelle with local cheeses and wild mushrooms was superbly done – well-balanced, rich and luscious. This kitchen certainly knows how to cook pasta. And it is good with meat, too – to judge by the quality of my enjoyable chateaubriand with béarnaise sauce. Only the concluding raspberry soufflé saw standards dip a little. (96 euros for these 4 courses.)

Another delight of dining here is the cellar. If only all the luxury hotels of the world would follow the pricing policy of the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni… For there are some real bargains to be had. What about 1999 Sassicaia for 85 euros? Or 2000 Tignanello for 61 euros? Or 1978 Haut Brion for 186 euros? Or 1996 Lynch Bages for 74 euros? This last was too good to miss, so the fine sommelier, Antonino Alberti, decanted it for me. In the Rona glass (an Italian make, new to me) it yielded a fascinating mixture of farmyard, black fruit and toffee. My white was the consistently good Sicilian chardonnay, Planeta. Its 2002 vintage was golden in colour, with lots of butter and apricot flavours. (44 euros.)

The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni has been owned by the Bucher family for three generations. Gianfranco Bucher is the current master of the domain. I salute him and his manager, Giuseppe Spinelli, for ensuring that his establishment continues to be worthy of its magical setting. And that is high praise.

ADDRESSES

GRAND HOTEL VILLA SERBELLONI

Via Roma 1, Bellagio 22021, Italy.

Telephone +39 031 950 216

Fax +39 031 951 529

Email: inforequest@villaserbelloni.it

www.villaserbelloni.it

Double rooms from 250 euros

Ask about special offers

Open from the end of March to mid November

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