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LAKE COMO CERNOBBIO VILLA D’ESTE
The door from the corridor opened into a proper hallway, with a dressing room (with a private safe) to the left. Straight ahead was the sitting room. Here was red (for the carpet, curtains and silk upholstery), yellow (for the walls) and gold (for the chandelier and the carved wooden eagles which supported the arms of the sofa). Sliding, mirrored doors led into the bedroom, which measured about 12 feet by 14 feet. On its walls were 18th Century engravings, wherein a respectable lady had taken her children to visit her parents. Through a make-up area was the bathroom, a chamber clad in yellow marble, with two wash basins, a tub of decent size, a separate shower and evidence of the hotel’s generous provision of toiletries. I was thoroughly at home in this apartment, and liked particularly to step through its French windows and enjoy the view of the Lake (pictured) each morning before breakfast. After these happy moments, I would return in the late afternoon to my apartment for the Pre-Prandial Soak. Via the television receiver, proper music was readily available. If you have never bathed in a suite at the Villa d’Este to the sound of Sir Thomas Beecham conducting Berlioz, you have not yet lived life to the full. I set off for dinner each evening cleansed, invigorated and hungry. My other dinners were had in the larger Verandah Restaurant. Here the hotel’s requirements are exactly right. I quote: “At dinner gentlemen are required to wear jacket and tie. Cellular ‘phones are not allowed in the dining room.” If only all hotels were so sensible. The wine list has well over 500 offerings, with prices ranging from 26ε for an Italian rosé to 3,950ε for 1995 Pétrus. The following caught my eye: 2007 Planeta chardonnay (60ε), 2001 Gaja Barbaresco (417ε), 2005 Sassicaia (360ε) and 1999 Cheval Blanc (900ε). From my own drinking, I would commend to you a big chardonnay from the Alto Adige region in the New World style (Forrigar, Colterenzio, 2006 - 35ε, half), a 2003 Tuscan cabernet with a vegetal nose and intense black fruit (Il Pareto, Nozzole - 115ε) and an intense, highly perfumed, red nebbiolo from Lombardy, recommended by sommelier Angelo Scilorini, made – like Amarone – from grapes left out to dry (Numero 1, Plozza, 2004 - 123ε).
I hope you will understand now why the Villa d’Este is the only hotel in the world from which I never stray during the course of a visit. I left, as I always leave the Villa d’Este, with reluctance. As the Royce and I trundled down the drive, I consoled myself with the thought that only by leaving could I return.
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ADDRESSES
VILLA D’ESTE
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© Francis Bown 2003
There is only one hotel in the world from which I never stray during the course of a visit. Why am I so happy to stay put? Well, this particular hostelry possesses some of the most magnificent (and important) gardens in Italy. Its rooms and suites are luxurious and comfortable. It sits right on the edge of Lake Como, and therefore enjoys a panorama which has few equals. There is plenty of civilized space, for its elegant public rooms and terraces are numerous and quiet. The food in its restaurants is delicious and the service from every member of its staff is courteous, friendly and efficient. But there is something much more than the sum of these parts. It is, I suppose – if I am allowed nowadays to mention something which is so politically incorrect – what we might call breeding. Here I am filled with the absolute certainty that I will never encounter the slightest hint of bad taste or vulgarity. Thus am I content to remain, with a smile on my face, within the gates of the magnificent, the incomparable Villa d’Este.
I am not, of course, the first person to be captivated by this demi-Eden. A prince of the Church, Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio, built himself a retreat on this spot in the 16th century, and Queen Caroline – the estranged wife of George IV – could not resist buying the property in 1815. With owners of such quality and wealth, all keen to adorn their lovely prize, it should not surprise us that the gardens are full of fountains, mosaics, arches, statues and battlements. They make the grandest of settings for the 19th Century hotel buildings. For the hotel is a relative newcomer, having been opened in 1873. Its fine buildings are, however, entirely right and exude the impression of having been here forever. I find few moments in my travels more pleasurable than those spent purring up the drive of the Villa d’Este in the Royce, with the hotel coming into view through the trees. (Many splendid motor cars make this same entrance each year for the annual Concours d’Élegance, and I cannot resist reproducing for you a photograph of one of the most beautiful, the winner in 2007 – a 1939 Bugatti 57C.)
Then, with the luggage taken by the porters and the Silver Cloud tucked away in the discreet underground garage (on this occasion, next to a new Phantom – or ‘Panzer’ as I prefer to call them), I am ready to be taken to my billet. For this visit, it was on the second floor. Room 215 was a ‘Junior Suite Exclusive’ and was therefore 835-1,350 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. It was clear that it had just been restored. In some establishments, this might have made my heart sink. (How often have I sighed at the efforts of yet another modern ‘designer’ to re-order a grand hotel?) But, this being the Villa d’Este, the restoration had been done properly. Instead of the drab modernism so prevalent elsewhere, here was an apartment to raise the spirits – bright, welcoming and thoroughly traditional. I hope that my picture of the sitting room gives some idea of this sense of joie de vivre.
Breaking the fast is a particular joy at the Villa d’Este, and I do not hurry my joys. Whether I was outside – with the vast awning protecting me from the sunshine – or inside, in the main restaurant, I made my choice from the extensive buffet with care. Each item – of the fruits, the meats, the cereals, the brioche, the tarts or the crusty loafs – was of fine quality. I even found a new treat – dishes of the most gorgeous bread and butter pudding. A chef stood by his pan, waiting to make omelettes to order, but I liked to ask one of the waiters to request the kitchen to prepare for me porcini mushrooms on toast. And jolly good they were, too. All these comestibles were washed down by coffee, served in silver pots. It is now my custom at breakfast to put ice cubes into my coffee cup, and so an ice bucket was brought to my table each morning.
My mornings and afternoons were spent on the terrace by the Lake – within or without the arcade, according to the clemency of the weather. Thereto did waiters in white jackets bring dishes of ice cream and supplies of Darjeeling tea. While thus passing the matchless hour, I conversed again with my two friends in this corner of Paradise. If you know anything of the Villa d’Este, you will know of Jean Salvadore (pictured), who has cared for the hotel’s public profile for a considerable time. This charming and vivacious lady is currently working on a book of her reminiscences, which will certainly be a fascinating volume. She showed to me one of the hotel’s new acquisitions, on the wall just by the entrance to the bar. It is a brilliant portrait, painted by the Italian Divisionist, Giacomo Balla, in 1901 – ‘Madam Pisani at the balcony’. And then there came along Danilo Zucchetti (pictured), the General Manager – always about the place, always watchful to ensure standards are maintained, always dapper and always ready for some civilized conversation.
The less formal of the dining rooms is The Grill, which is housed in a separate building in the grounds. On the evening I chose to eat there the heavens opened, and I began to wonder how I could reach my dinner without ruining my crocodile shoes. Of course, I need not have worried. The hotel had a BMW motor car (with umbrellas) on hand, and the chauffeur took me to within inches of the restaurant porch. Then I was in the hands of Salvatori, The Grill’s ever-affable maitre d’. Soon I was warm and comfortable in the room’s clubby atmosphere and the waiters – smart in white or black tie – were lifting domes to reveal the enjoyable dishes prepared by Chef Simone Paredi. I began with a Caprese salad with warm scallops, herbs and pesto – a straightforward, carefully-executed, well-balanced start. Then it was something altogether more solid and robust – maccheroncini pasta with cherry tomatoes, basil and ricotta cheese. The deer fillet with chestnut dumplings and mushroom sauce brought good, pink meat – which went well with the pink of my suit. I finished with a filling tiramisù. (These four courses were 116 euros.)
I must say a special word of thanks to Gianfranco Mondelli, the 2nd maitre d’. He it was who recommended to me my red wine. This 2006 Le Serre Nuove (80ε) from Tuscany, made by Ornellaia, was rich, sweet, luscious and possessed of a magnificent structure – truly superb drinking.
White napery, candles, waiters in black tie (or red jackets for the sommeliers) and gleaming Stölze glassware created an atmosphere at once properly formal and highly welcoming. In charge of the kitchen is the famous Chef Luciano Parolari (pictured), and the service – smooth and professional – is orchestrated by the 1st maitre d’ Gianpaolo Ceccato. This is one of those restaurants in which it is very difficult indeed not to have a good time. I certainly did. I will share with you the highlights of my meals. Zucchini blossoms, stuffed with vegetables and ricotta cheese and served with truffle sauce, were as tasty as they were pretty. The ‘Villa d’Este delights’ – foie gras, lobster and beef carpaccio – were rich and satisfying. Tagliolini with speck and porcini mushrooms was filling in the most satisfying way. Loin and spicy shank of lamb with celery purée would have been better without the cereal blinis, but the meat was full of flavour. Fillet of beef in three pieces (and with three sauces) was also really tasty, although its magnitude defeated me. And the soufflé of wild berries with peach sauce was ravishing. (Allow around 130ε for four courses.)
