VILLA D’ESTE

We live in an age of Listomania. The obsession with the ‘Top Ten’ this and the ‘Greatest One Hundred’ that is altogether rather silly. So let me join in. At least, I will do so to this extent: if I were forced to construct a list of my five very favourite hotels in the entire world, there is one establishment which would always be included. Indeed, I have become so attached to this particular property that the idea of life without the possibility of visiting it is now, for me, quite unbearable. You will gather that this is a very special place indeed. It is, of course, the majestic, the matchless, the unique Villa D’Este.

What is it that makes me love this great patrician villa on the shores of Lake Como? The location is glorious, the architecture is impressive, the gardens are magnificent… but, most of all, it is the people. That is why I am bringing before you the photographs of two of the most delightful and engaging persons I have had the privilege to meet on my many travels. The first is the Lady of the Hotel, the Grande Dame of the Grande Dame, seen here with your correspondent. Mrs Jean Salvatore has looked after the public relations of the Villa D’Este for a remarkable number of years. She has seen many of its significant moments, and she talks of them with an engaging charm which is quite irresistible. And then there is the General Manager, Danilo Zucchetti, dapper and charming, whose efficiency never precludes the opportunity for polite conversation.

Both, I always sense, are committed to the essence of the Villa D’Este. And that essence is refined grandeur. I cannot believe that, since the hotel opened in 1873, anything vulgar or unseemly has ever been allowed within its walls. (A film star recently asked for exclusive use of the hotel for one of his weddings, and was answered with a polite ‘No’.) That is why, as you will see from the photograph, my elderly and very proper Royce looked so happy here. Before 1873, things were probably rather different. Princes of the church in earlier times sometimes had their moments, and it was Cardinal Tolomeo Gallio who first built on this spot in the 16th century. Queen Caroline, the estranged wife of George IV, also recognised the rare beauty of the place, and bought the property in 1815. I expect she liked the gardens. They are stunning – full of priceless works of the Renaissance and of the 18th century. The fountains, mosaics, arches, statues and battlements bring admirers from around the world.

I had driven from Switzerland, and arrived rather tired. Simply walking into the hotel sent my fatigue scampering for cover. It must have been something to do with the marble balustrades and the crystal chandeliers. Soon I was on the third floor, walking past paintings of Roman emperors. Then it was into Room 314, a ‘Junior Suite Exclusive’ (815 to 1,260 euros a night, according to season, bed and breakfast for two). I reproduce for you pictures of the air-conditioned sitting room and bedroom, which were separated by sliding, mirrored doors. You will note the elegance of the Empire style and the presence of careful quantities of gilding.

Off the hallway was a panelled dressing room, with a safe and with enough hanging space, even for me. On the walls of the sitting room were three oil paintings by Old Masters. The curtains throughout were of the finest silk damask, and the door furniture was of gilt brass. In the bathroom I found myself surrounded by huge slabs of white marble, veined in black. I can report that the tub was of a comfortable size, that there was one wash basin and that there was a separate loo, with a bidet. I discovered that proper music was available via the television system, so – when ablution times arrived – I was able to select Mozart’s 40th Symphony to accompany my bathing.

Nowadays, a pathetic slave to the demands of my back, I always have to test the bed before my first night of sleep. Here it was slightly too hard. But a word to the concierge and a magic wand was waved. A few minutes later – while I was out of the room – the bed had been transformed into a miracle of welcoming softness. This is what I expect of the Villa D’Este.

As I expect also the loveliest of breakfasts on the terrace (pictured) next to Lake Como. Each morning, as the giant yellow awning protected me from the rays of the sun, I covered my table with bounty from the buffet: corn flakes, melon, pineapple, fruit tart, croissants and onion omelettes (cooked to order). Waiters in white jackets and black bow ties brought to me silver pots of coffee and my concluding cappuccini. Occasionally, a tourist launch would pause on the glistening waters, while the guide pointed out to his customers the famous Villa D’Este.

The hotel has three dining rooms for dinner, and I ate in each of them. Non Solo Pasta (pictured) opens only in the evening, and is the smallest and least formal. For 55 euros, one takes antipasta from its buffet, followed by a choice of pastas with different sauces and then a pudding. I sat at a table on the veranda, next to a stone urn, with a view of a floodlit ancient tree and the Lake beyond. The two waiters, Daniele and Martino, smart in white tie, helped me to veal meat balls, asparagus, cauliflower and beef carpaccio (from the buffet), Fettucini with Bolognese sauce and fruit tart with vanilla ice cream. Both the service and the food were of a high standard. From the very short wine list I chose the fresh, sparkling, house spumante (Spumante Villa D’Este, Special Reserve Brut 2002 – 50 euros) and a good, old-fashioned, vanilla-laden chianti (Fonteruotoli Mazzei, 2004 – 44 euros). You will notice that it is not essential to spend heavily to eat and drink well here.

The Grill is a low, intimate room, with warm colours, off-white tablecloths, palms in pots and waiters, under the watchful eye of maitre d’ Salvatore, in either white or black tie. From Chef Simone Paredi’s appealing menu, I selected foie gras with caramelized peaches (a subtle and elegant combination), spaghetti carbonara (all tastes present and correct), grilled fillet of beef (tender and tasty) and a satisfying peach pie with citrus sorbet. (Expect to pay around 105 euros for four courses.) Gianfranco poured into Italesse glasses the big, well-structured white from Antinori, Cervaro della Sala (2005 – 42 euros, half), and the peppery 2005 Planeta syrah from Sicily (55 euros).

These wines were from the short version of the wine list. The full version, with around 700 offerings, I found at the hotel’s main gastronomic centre, the Verandah Restaurant (pictured). This is the domain of the famous Chef Luciano Parolari, and a mighty fine domain it is. Inside, it is large, comfortable and elegant. But, on this visit – the weather being exceptionally clement – I was able to sit outside, right next to the Lake waters. Strains from the little band at the bar further along the terrace drifted into my ears. ‘Raindrops are falling on my head…’ But they weren’t. Indeed, as the light faded and the lights on the opposite bank began to twinkle, the whole atmosphere became idyllic. It was my birthday and, this being the Villa D’Este, the waiters therefore struggled to my table with a marvellous model of a coach and horses, which, they told me, was made entirely of chocolate. This intelligence caused me to commit a small act of vandalism. I leaned over and broke off a piece of the carriage. Later, I rather regretted my action. (But the chocolate was jolly good…)

At the Verandah, waiters wear black tie, silver domes are lifted, gentlemen are required to wear jacket and tie and mobile telephone are not permitted. In other words, the atmosphere is exactly as it should be. 1st Maitre d’ Gianpaolo Ceccato looked after me tremendously well, and ensured that my evening proceeded at precisely the right pace.

I began with zucchini blossoms, stuffed with vegetables and ricotta cheese, with truffle sauce. This was just the sort of beginning I like: its flavours and textures subtle and delicate. Then the tastes became stronger and more robust, with excellent tortelli, stuffed with veal ragout, sautéed mushrooms and nepitella (a herb). Loin of lamb with crisp potatoes and braised vegetables was a fine main course, with really flavoursome meat. To finish, my favourite Crèpes Suzette came with sour cherries. (These four courses were 113 euros.)

Italy and France dominate the wine list. Prices (in euros) run from 26 for a white from the Trentino to 2,860 for the 1996 Pétrus. Many bottles are in the 40-60 price range. There is lots to interest the enthusiast, but the following caught my eye: 2001 Ornellaia (280), 2001 Barbaresco, Gaja (220), 2005 Planeta chardonnay (56), 1999 Margaux (560), 1996 Cheval Blanc (650) and 1995 Yquem (615). Of the ‘foreign’ offerings, the 1997 Henschke Hill of Grace from Australia looked good value at 550 euros.

I should thank sommelier Gianpaolo Vaninetti for pouring into the glasses (by Oberglas) two terrific wines. The 2001 Chateau Grillet (114 euros) had the strains of pear and melon we expect from a viognier from the Rhone, and became more voluptuous as it warmed. And the 2001 Luce (135 euros), although still young, yielded the depths of perfume and black fruit we look for in the very best reds from Tuscany. This was gorgeous drinking.

And this is a gorgeous place in which to stay. Traditional, serene, unflappable, self-confident… the Villa D’Este is a true aristocrat among the world’s great hotels. If I am really going to be forced to set down my list of favourites, she will be very, very close to the top.