FRANCE
SAINT TROPEZ
VILLA BELROSE RESTAURANT
Arriving at the Villa Belrose is a real pleasure. On a hill overlooking St Tropez, it is a painted villa in the Florentine style. For some years it has been sought out both by those looking for a top class hotel and by those interested in the art of gastronomy. Since 2002 a Michelin star has twinkled over the kitchen of this elegant establishment. Its chef, Thierry Thiercelin (pictured), who was born in the locality, has been toiling over the stoves since 1998, and his experience before he arrived here impresses those of us who care about French food – for he worked with both Jacques Maximin and Bernard Loiseau. He is known to favour cooking at low temperatures and to avoid the use of cream, butter and fat. Reassuringly, he says that his cooking “never strays too far from France”. You will not be surprised to learn that I was looking forward to my dinner at the Villa Belrose.
I was struck by the quietness of the restaurant terrace. Although there are, in fact, many buildings on this particular hillside – for it is a highly desirable place in which to own a property – yet there was a lovely sense of being apart from the world, even of being suspended in the air, as if from a giant balloon. There down below was the whole of the St Tropez bay, with its pristine yachts and its surrounding garland of twinkling lights. And up here were waiters and waitresses who were carefully looking after their guests. I made myself comfortable in the cushions of the metal armchair, noted with approval the Schott glassware on the white damask tablecloth and realized once more how exceedingly pleasant it is to eat under the stars. I spread a morsel of raisin and fig bread with salted butter and smiled.
Chef Thiercelin offers a tasting menu for 125 euros. If you choose four courses from the carte, as I did, expect to pay around 150-175 euros. My food came on crockery which had, clearly, been carefully chosen. Crockery does make a significant contribution to the experience at the table, and where it is particularly interesting, as here, it should be acknowledged. Service should be noted, too. The hotel’s General Manager, Robert-Jan Van Straaten (pictured), has built up a young and hard-working team. Everyone with whom I had to do was clearly eager to please.
My dinner proceeded at a stately pace. It began with a vegetable ‘bourride’ with summer truffle. Served in a tall Martini glass, this was a good mixture of tastes and textures, and its cool creaminess was welcome on the warm evening. Next came a ‘rose’ of spiny lobster, with confit tomatoes, fresh almonds, marinated courgettes and warm lobster vinaigrette. For my palate, the tomato was a little too dominant, but the plate was as pretty as one of the paintings on offer from the artists down at the harbour. The rack of Sisteron lamb was on another level. This was glorious meat, cooked to pink perfection and served with delicious stuffed vegetables. I continue to be astonished by the abstaining from such intense enjoyment which is undertaken by my vegetarian friends. How can they deny themselves experiences like this? (No answers on a postcard, please.) I concluded with apple tart, cooked three ways. (These four courses were 174 euros.)
The sommelière at the Villa Belrose is Audrey Clastre. There are around 500 wines on her list, which has – as it should have – an impressive depth in wines from local vineyards, with prices starting at 30 euros. (Lovers of red burgundy will be relieved to know that 1996 La Tâche is available for 2,000 euros.) Glasses of different wines have been paired with the dishes on the tasting menu, and, after a glass of champagne, I tried several of those glasses. They included a youthful and firmly structured red bordeaux.
As my taxi took me back down the hill towards St Tropez, I reflected upon my visit to the painted Florentine villa, with its captivating views and its Michelin-starred restaurant. Fortunate, indeed, are those who go up the hill to the Villa Belrose for a longer stay.
ADDRESSES
THE RESTAURANT
Villa Belrose, Boulevard des Crêtes, La Grande Bastide, 83580 Gassin/St-Tropez, France.
Telephone +33 (0)4 94 55 97 97
Fax +33 (0)4 94 55 97 98
Email: belrose@relaischateaux.com
www.villabelrose.com
Open: April – October