FRANCE

SAINT TROPEZ

VILLA BELROSE RESTAURANT

On a hill overlooking St Tropez is a painted villa in the Florentine style. For some years it has been sought out both by those looking for a top class hotel and by those interested in the art of gastronomy. Since 2002 a Michelin star has twinkled over the kitchen of this elegant establishment. Its chef, Thierry Thiercelin (pictured), who was born in the locality, has been toiling over the stoves since 1998, and his experience before he arrived here impresses those of us who care about French food – for he worked with both Jacques Maximin and Bernard Loiseau. He is known to favour cooking at low temperatures and to avoid the use of cream, butter and fat. Reassuringly, he says that his cooking “never strays too far from France”. You will not be surprised to learn that I was looking forward to my dinner at the Villa Belrose.

I was struck by the quietness of the restaurant terrace. Although there are, in fact, many buildings on this particular hillside – for it is a highly desirable place in which to own a property – yet there was a lovely sense of being apart from the world, even of being suspended in the air, as if from a giant balloon. There down below was the whole of the St Tropez bay, with its pristine yachts and its surrounding garland of twinkling lights. And up here were waiters and waitresses in white shirts, grey ties and grey waistcoats, carefully looking after their guests. I made myself comfortable in the cushions of the metal armchair, noted with approval the Zwiesel glassware on the beige tablecloth and realized once more how exceedingly pleasant it is to eat under the stars. I spread a morsel of raisin and fig bread with salted butter and smiled as the taste buds transmitted to my brain the news that this first item of food was of exceptional quality.

Chef Thiercelin offers two set dinner menus – at 95 euros and at 115 euros. If you choose four courses from the carte, as I did, expect to pay around 140 euros. My food came on white plates which were large. I mention this because I liked both their colour and their size. Crockery does make a significant contribution to the experience at the table, and where it is particularly well-chosen, as here, it should be acknowledged. Excellent service should be noted, too. The hotel’s General Manager, Robert-Jan Van Straaten (pictured), has clearly built up a skilled team. Whether they were replacing the napkins of those diners who had left their places for a moment or wheeling along the trolley laden with greenery (from which guests could choose from a selection of teas), the waiters and waitresses fulfilled their appointed tasks with precision and skill.

I began my dinner with cold crayfish and vegetables, which was as pretty, light and delicate a beginning as I could have hoped for. Then came a warm dish, which was similarly pleasing to the eye: lightly fried red mullet, with ratatouille and cèpes. I cannot remember having mushrooms with mullet before. I can report that they go together very well indeed. My meat course was beef, but not just any beef. This was Bavarian Simmental beef. The pan-fried fillet was wonderfully full of flavour, and was served with potatoes and fresh herbs. I was quite convinced that it would be the highlight of the meal – until the pudding arrived. I have had many soufflés in my life, from the sublime to the ridiculous. (The most memorable example of the latter was in Prague, in the Communist days, when the kitchen of the ‘luxury hotel’ presented to me – at its fourth attempt – a raspberry soufflé which had the texture of an over-baked Madeira cake.) But never had I encountered a soufflé quite like this. The difference was in the presentation. This excellent peach soufflé came to me as if it were in a round pot. But there was no pot. It was, let us say, self-supporting. How this was done, I do not know. But it was a fine conceit, and made me smile with pleasure.

The sommelière, Sophie Ribra (pictured) is from Alsace. There are around 500 wines on her list, which has – as it should have – an impressive depth in wines from local vineyards, with prices starting at 30 euros. (Lovers of red burgundy will be relieved to know that 1996 La Tâche is available for 2,000 euros.) My white was local. I asked for something big and buttery, and that is what I got – together with discreet fruit and some smokiness (Dom. des Sarrins, Blanc de Blancs, 2007 - 60ε). My red from the Rhône yielded stewed fruit and dates, although it was still rather stern (St Joseph, Caroline, L. Chèze, 2006 - 40ε, half).

As my taxi took me back down the hill towards St Tropez, I reflected upon my visit to the painted Florentine villa, with its captivating views and its Michelin-starred restaurant. Fortunate are those who go up the hill to the Villa Belrose for a longer stay.

ADDRESSES

THE RESTAURANT
Villa Belrose, Boulevard des Crêtes, La Grande Bastide, 83580 Gassin/St-Tropez, France.
Telephone  +33 (0)4 94 55 97 97
Fax  +33 (0)4 94 55 97 98
Email:  belrose@relaischateaux.com
www.villabelrose.com
Open:  April – October