|
Contact: info@bownsbest.com
Home - Austria - Benelux - France & Monaco - Germany - Spain - Sweden - Switzerland - United Kingdom - United States |
||
|
VENICE SAN CLEMENTE PALACE
Oh, to have my very own island in the Venetian lagoon. Thence, on a sunny morning, I could sail over to the Grand Canal to look at a few priceless paintings in the Ca’ Pesaro before a leisurely lunch in the most beautiful city in the world. In the afternoon heat I could return to my retreat and sit in a shady corner and sip Pimm’s Number One and marvel at the sparkling brightness of its cubes of ice, as an evening of good food and fine wine approached. An idle day dream? Not at all. I have done it. For I have been to stay at the San Clemente Palace. New hotels in Venice make the news. This one is a magnificent 200-bedroom addition to the hostelries of a town which has been welcoming visitors for centuries. It occupies the whole of the Isola San Clemente’s five acres, which lie a 15 minute ride in one of the hotel’s handsome boats from the centre of Venetian life, St Mark’s Square. 900 years ago, the island’s position attracted monks and a monastery was established. The pretty chapel (mostly 15 th century) stands today restored and pristine. As do the rest of the buildings, arranged around large, open courtyards. Within, I was struck repeatedly by the vast, airy corridors, which impart a most pleasing sense of spaciousness and luxury. We all know that much of Venice can become rather crowded in high season, but here green lawns stretch into the distance and accommodate not only tennis courts and a swimming pool, but also a pitch-and-putt golf course. I stepped carefully out of the water taxi from the airport (currently a 90-euro fare) and was immediately captivated by the verdant splendour of these grounds. I left my luggage near the jetty for the porters and sauntered up the long, straight path to the main entrance. First impressions count at luxury hotels. Everything must be immaculate and good taste must be evident in every view. I am pleased to report that those who have spent many millions of pounds on the restoration of the San Clemente Palace share these views. The paintings by Titian and Tintoretto on the walls are, alas! only copies, but they set the tone for the extensive and comfortable public areas. There is even a room with screens and free access to the internet, so that a stay here will not deprive you of your regular diet of Bown’s Best and Bown’s Bespoke.
Breakfast is had in the Gli Arazzi rooms, several handsome chambers on the ground floor. Crystal chandeliers and 18 th century Aubusson tapestries oversaw my excursions to the buffet, from which I took to my table bacon, orange juice, croissants, melon, pineapple and slices of chocolate cake – all of excellent quality. On one morning I broke my fast outside, by the old cloister, and consumed these comestibles while sitting next to a bed of geraniums and a lion’s head carved in stone. I found the waiting staff on these occasions most solicitous. I liked, too, the crockery – which, on close inspection, turned out to have been made in Germany, by Schönwald.
In this enchanting setting, I sat in a metal chair at a round table with a beige cloth as waiters in black bow ties and striped aprons brought to me four enjoyable courses: langoustines and sardines with onion and lemon, pasta with goose and thyme, lamb cutlets with green apples and gratinated peaches with mascarpone ice cream (99 euros). If you like straightforward food and large portions, you will be happy at Le Maschere. And I was certainly happy with what was poured into the good Schott glasses. I always like the Planeta chardonnay from Sicily. Its 2003 vintage (58 euros) was fat and golden, full of butter and vanilla, and yielded an intriguing hint of peach. And my Tuscan red was impressive, too. Made from 60% cabernet, 30% merlot and 10% syrah, the 2000 Bolgheri Superiore, Guado al Tasso, from Antinori (88 euros) was open, perfumed and possessed of the sweetness of a thousand ripe damsons.
And the quality of the food from Chef Enrico Gabriele was high. Indeed, if he maintains the standard I found in my dishes, a Michelin star would undoubtedly be justified. Sautéed king prawns with Sechuan pepper, suspended over a blend of melon and lemon, were beautifully cooked and splendidly partnered by the fruit – although the architectural presentation did make them slightly difficult to eat. Super lobster came with pasta leaves and wonderfully flavoursome vegetables. Duck foie gras and caramelized peaches added interest to tasty slices of roasted duck breast. And the finale was bright and confident: a coconut mousse with an infusion of tea, pineapple and ginger. (126 euros for these four courses.) The wine list is of interest. There are lots of grand clarets from the rather difficult vintage of 1997 – like Mouton Rothschild at 510 euros. If you also demand the finest of French sweet wines, 1996 Yquem is on offer at 591 euros. Prices for Italian bottles range from 29 euros to 241 euros (the latter for the 2000 vintage Sassicaia). Other parts of the world are decently represented, and two bottles caught my eye: from Australia, Henschke’s 1998 Keyneton Estate at 108 euros; and, from Austria, a half-bottle of Kracher’s 2001 Eiswein for 62 euros. I drank a local sauvigon blanc, slightly burnt in the mouth, with melon, lychees and kiwi (Vulcaia Fumé, Inama, 2002 – 48 euros), and a 1999 Brunello di Montalcino with a lovely balance of tannins and ripe fruit (Pian delle Vigne, Antinori – 73 euros). My only problem at the San Clemente Palace was the non-appearance of one of the hotel boats when I wished to return from St Mark’s Square. Apart from that, it was sheer, unadulterated pleasure to have my very own island in the Venetian lagoon. Who says that dreams do not come true? |
||
ADDRESSES
SAN CLEMENTE PALACE RISTORANTE LE MASCHERE & RISTORANTE CA DEI FRATI – details as above
|
||
| Home - Austria - Benelux - France & Monaco - Germany - Italy - Spain - Sweden - Switzerland - United Kingdom - United States |
© Francis Bown 2003
Room 35 on the second floor (or ‘third’, as the lifts follow the American numbering) was a ‘deluxe double’ and therefore 340 to 545 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. Two of its walls were covered with damask of pale gold. A gilt mirror of gothic form hung above the writing desk, on which resided a table lamp in the form of an elephant. Beige marble clad the bathroom, in which the tub was of decent size. Two aspects of this apartment particularly appealed to me: the view from the window of the campanile of St Mark’s Basilica in the far distance and the ability to set the controls of the air conditioning to read in good old Fahrenheit instead of nasty new Centigrade. This was the first time I had come across this facility, and it pleased me no end. (There was also a tempting overnight shoe-shine service, but, as usual, I was too neurotic to entrust my Cleverley brogues to anyone else’s care.)
Apart from the restaurant by the pool (I am not a lover of the sun-tan, so I am seldom to be found near such facilities), the hotel has two dining rooms. Le Maschere concentrates on Venetian cuisine, and has a collection of paintings by a local artist, Eremita. Its excellent maitre d’ Francesco d’Introno showed me to a table on the outside terrace, and I was glad he did. To my right was the white façade of the chapel. Ahead was a vast panorama of water with the far-off churches of the Redentore and Santa Maria della Salute poking their domes into the bronze of the early evening sky. 
My more formal dining experience was had at the Ca Dei Frati. This ancient laundry has been transformed into a chamber of some grandeur. My armchair was large and upholstered in green damask. On my table flickered a candle, which floated on water within a crystal holder. Through the large windows were distant views of the Lagoon and the Doge’s Palace. Admittedly, there was canned music – but at least it was Liszt. For one sartorial detail I awarded top marks: the waiters (efficiently marshalled by maitre d’ Paolo Bertipaglia) were in tailcoats. Truly, there was a sense of occasion to my meal here.