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RESTAURANT DU PARC DES EAUX-VIVES
Considerable effort has gone into making this a comfortable and stylish setting for haute cuisine. Tablecloths of white damask, armchairs upholstered in red velvet, glass doors into the kitchen, white porcelain from Limoges, Riedel glasses and suggestions of Art Déco – like the silvered walls and the charming light fittings – appealed to both the gastronomic and the aesthetic sides of this visitor. I liked, too, the proper service from the members of staff in dark suits, who were careful to re-fold the napkins of any diner who left the table for a moment. The charming Director, Shigeyasu Saito, showed me to my table. Through the window the lake and the lights of the town made a pleasing panorama. Mr Saito explained that the Chef, Olivier Samson, was from Brittany and that he had worked in the kitchens of the wonderful Restaurant Pic in Valence. Valence is, of course, on the River Rhone, as is Geneva, which made me think that the talent of the chef had floated down the river from one great culinary shrine to another. Certainly, Monsieur Samson – whom I illustrate both in his kitchen and with his family – is a chef of prodigious talent, as I was about to discover. His cuisine is undeniably French, but his presentation owes much to Japan. Each of my plates was a treat for my eyes: a delightful assembly of colours and shapes, with the emphasis on serenity and balance. It takes a great deal of hard work and talent to achieve this effect. The kitchen here is clearly full of both.
The cellar houses 500 different wines, with prices starting at around 70 euros. Inevitably, France dominates and there are good vintages of the finest names. You will need to be careful with the prices, however. If you want a first growth claret from the 1990 vintage (and which wine-bibber in his right mind does not?), you can choose from Mouton-Rothschild, Latour and Margaux. Each, I am sure, would be equally gorgeous. But the prices, in order, are 1,299 euros, 2,585 euros and 5,420 euros. I was glad to see that exemplar of all that can be achieved in the Languedoc, Grange des Pères, on the list, at 210 euros for the 2005 vintage. From Italy, 1995 Sassicaia is 650 euros, and from Spain, 1990 Vega Sicilia Unico is 1,395 euros.
If you are going to Geneva, you should make your way to this restaurant. If you have no plans to go to Geneva, make them now. You do not need an excuse. You have a very good reason. You must drink of the Living Waters. You need to have dinner at the Restaurant du Parc des Eaux-Vives.
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RESTAURANT DU PARC DES EAUX-VIVES |
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© Francis Bown 2003
It has been my privilege over the years to dine with French families in their own dining rooms. These families have, invariably, been of the bourgeois kind: well-to-do, respectable and pleasingly old-fashioned. I have noticed on these pleasant occasions the frequent use of an item which will be unfamiliar to many English and American folk. It is the porte de couteaux, a bar of metal (usually of silver) upon which one’s knife rests between courses. I suppose that it was useful in the days when table knives were scarce, and expensive, and it was important to be able to retain the same implement throughout the meal – without soiling the tablecloth. In these days of plentiful cutlery, its use is a conceit, but a happy one. I was intrigued to find one on my table in the grandest dining room in Geneva, at the Restaurant du Parc des Eaux-Vives.
The eponymous park is a pretty expanse of green, which slopes down towards the waters of Lac Léman. At the park’s highest level is an 18th century mansion (pictured) of handsome proportions. It has been a restaurant since 1900, and has been owned by the City of Geneva since 1931. On its ground floor is a brasserie; on its second floor are half a dozen bedrooms for paying guests; and on the first floor – the filling of this elegant architectural sandwich – is the restaurant over which twinkle two of those coveted Michelin stars. Emerging from the lift, I liked what I saw.
Three set menus are offered, at 145, 175 and 260 euros. I chose four courses from the carte (for 261 euros). Steamed Breton blue lobster, with a claw in batter, came on a square white plate and was almost too pretty to eat. Almost, but not quite... This was a lovely harmony of flavours, with passion fruit vinaigrette and avocado making their distinctive contributions. Then it was duck foie gras, the substantial portion of cold liver – heavy and intense – given extra life and zest by pear jelly and black fig. Again, the appearance was delightful. My meat course was even better. This grilled fillet of lamb – with salted butter, soufflé potatoes and Swiss chard – was superb meat, superbly cooked. And, as well as rigour and precision, the kitchen can show humour, too. I finished with a green ball on top of half a brown ball. The brown was a tarte tatin; the green was a ball of sugar, and hiding within it was a gorgeous helping of Granny Smith sorbet. Delicious.
Sommelier Arnaud Philippi, a knowledgeable and affable fellow from Alsace, listened patiently to my meanderings and then brought me two bottles which were exactly what I wanted. Clever chap. Both were from Burgundy. My white had all the clarity of structure, toastiness and discreet fruit you expect of a really top-class Meursault (Arnaud Ente, 2001 – 235 euros), and my red was a show-stopping Gevrey-Chambertin, coming very close to that Holy Grail of red burgundy, the combination of over-ripe strawberries and mucky farmyard (Cuvée 5 Terroirs, Denis Mortet, 2005 – 250 euros). Drinking like this makes me pity the teetotallers and reminds me that I believe in Heaven.
