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ITALY MILAN PARK HYATT MILAN
Let me give you a small example of the exemplary service I received at the Park Hyatt. At breakfast, when there is a buffet, I tend to be expansive, and there is seldom sufficient space on my table for all the many plates of my chosen comestibles. I am also very particular about where I sit, and I do not like any musical accompaniment. On the first morning the excellent Alessandra looked after me, and on each morning thereafter she ensured that, not one but two tables in the correct corner were reserved for me and that the canned music was extinguished at my approach. Well done, that lady.
More formal dining at the Park Hyatt is done in the Park restaurant. This comprises two rooms. The colours are subdued and the atmosphere is calm and relaxed. Once again, the canned music was turned off for me. The tablecloths are beige, the glassware is good (by a German company, called SF), the waiters are in dark suits and napkins are replaced. I was looked after with exceptional kindness and efficiency by the Restaurant Manager, Nicola Ultimo.
Prices for the 250 offerings (which are mostly Italian and French) on the wine list run from 28 euros for a white from Campania to 850 euros for 1986 Yquem or 1995 Ausone. Twenty wines are served by the glass, with Krug at 36ε. Other bottles to catch my eye were: 2006 Tignanello (95ε), 1998 Sassicaia (490ε) and 2000 Dom Pérignon (260ε). In this context, prices struck me as very reasonable. My own drinking comprised a Tuscan chardonnay, with hints of toast and vanilla and the weight to make a super accompaniment for the ravioli (Capannelle, 2007 – 70ε), and a full-bodied, ‘hot’ merlot from Umbria, laden with black cherries (Castello della Reine, 2003 - 68ε). The Park Hyatt is a model of good taste, superbly located in the very centre of the great city of Milan. In Signor Claudio Ceccherelli, it has one of the great hotel managers. His staff provides a level of service which can be described as impeccable. And Chef Gozzoli is reaching the heights of culinary excellence. The city is lucky to have this great hotel. No wonder I like the Park Hyatt Milan.
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ADDRESSES
PARK HYATT MILAN
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© Francis Bown 2003
If you are going to Milan, there is one hotel with a perfect location – or, at least, it is perfect for me. First, it is quiet, and quietness is an absolute requirement for a luxury hotel. Second, it is central, and being at the heart of things is necessary in an important city like Milan. And third – and here I realize that there might be one or two readers who do not share my particular scheme of priorities – it is close to the Duomo. Indeed, it is so close that, even at my excruciatingly slow rate of locomotion – on the Lord’s Day I can walk from the restful silence of one of its comfortable apartments to the incense-laden polyphony of High Mass in the Cathedral (according to the Ambrosian Rite) in about four minutes. Others will be similarly pleased to know that one of the finest opera houses in the world, La Scala, is almost as close. Joy it is, then, to be in the capital of Lombardy when you are staying at the Park Hyatt Milan.
But there is more, for the hotel has an exceptional manager. That is why I am pleased to present to you a photographic portrait of Signor Claudio Ceccherelli. He is an affable and charming gentleman. He smiles a great deal, and so he should – because of the truly wonderful standards of service provided by the staff of his hotel. As we attribute the victory of an army to the general in command, so we should praise the hotel manager who leads his troops in such a manner that his establishment offers hospitality of the highest order. So I salute Mr Ceccherelli for the members of his staff. They are smartly dressed, highly motivated, courteous, efficient and friendly. It came as no surprise to me to learn that Mr Ceccerelli is from a distinguished family, which has given to the Church many remarkable Franciscans.
He, of course, is in charge of a hostelry, not a friary. But a handsome hostelry it is. It occupies a 19th century palazzo, next to the famous Galleria (the enormous shopping arcade which is called ‘Milan’s drawing room’). Built in 1870, the palazzo was converted into the Park Hyatt in 2003. Externally, its period elegance has been perfectly preserved. It looks the sort of place in which persons of refinement would feel at home. Internally, its elegance is of an altogether different kind. Designed by Ed Tuttle, the interior is discreet and sophisticated. Natural light is everywhere. Granite and marble are all about and Classical references (like the octagonal columns of pink granite around the central cupola) subtly suggest the timelessness of this form of luxury. If you have the sense that I approve of the Park Hyatt, you are correct. It was cool, in all senses of the word. 
I was shown to a junior suite on the second floor. (You should check the rates for specific dates on the internet.) Here was more cause for pleasure. Shutters to the tall windows, modern wall lights of Murano crystal and cleverly placed panels of mirrored glass, together with 12-foot ceilings, made this apartment – which measured about 20 feet by 18 feet – feel both spacious and welcoming. I noted with approval the stone writing desk, the Bang & Olufsen television, the carpet of grey and the window seat with purple cushions. No noise seemed capable of penetrating this billet, and the very efficient air conditioning was miraculously silent. It took me a while to work out how the lighting system worked, but then – with the spotlights dimmed – I could relax here in comfort. The kind ladies from Housekeeping put six duvets under the bottom sheet, to make my bed soft enough for my demanding back. 
My bathroom was reached through a sliding door and was of a very generous size indeed. It contained three hanging spaces (one with a safe), 2 wash basins, a bath-tub in which I could (and did) happily submerge, a pair of scales (which I did not use), a walk-in shower, toiletries by Laura Tonatto and a plentiful supply of large white towels.
These buffet breakfasts (35 euros) were consumed in the Cupola, under a high glass dome. Here I sat on a banquette of green silk. To me were brought jugs of coffee, baskets of brioche, plates of mushrooms on toast and glasses of the freshly-squeezed juice of blood oranges. I helped myself to bowls of corn flakes and plates of pineapple, melon and strawberries. 
Executive Chef Filippo Gozzoli gets better and better. On this occasion he provided me with a meal which clearly came from a kitchen working to the highest standards. Each of my dishes showed skill, intelligence and flair. I began with the star of the show, an escalope of roasted foie gras, with pineapple and a mustard wafer. The combination of foie gras and fruit always appeals to me, but this was absolutely gorgeous in its rich balance. Ravioli with peas, kid and Pecorino cheese brought translucent pasta and a wonderful combination of mutually beneficial tastes and textures. The lamb – gratinated rack with morel mushrooms and artichokes – was superb, tender meat, full of flavour. And the concluding apple pie, with cinnamon and ginger ice cream, kept up the standards, being both delicate and delicious. (These four courses were 93 euros.)
