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GENEVA RESTAURANT DU PARC DES EAUX-VIVES
I was met in the entrance hall by the youthful and charming Director, Stefan Winistoerfer. A handsome staircase beckoned, but Mr Winistoerfer wisely whisked me upstairs in the little lift. Soon I was settling back into a fauteuil upholstered in orange velvet. I surveyed my surroundings. The table in front of me was large and round and covered with white damask. Upon it stood Riedel glasses. Through a French window I could see the lights on the far side of the lake. Chromium wall lights and silvered walls created a pleasing sense of Art Déco. Waiters looked discreet in their dark suits. Napkins were replaced, as necessary. The prevailing atmosphere was both comfortable and sophisticated, and very much to my taste. Through a glass door at the end of the room, the kitchen was visible. What delights, I wondered, would it send to me?
My main course was venison, fillet and a chop – the latter with fried foie gras – with cabbage and truffles. So often it is when the meat arrives that standards drop. Not here. This was an object lesson in tenderness, taste and balance. Everything on my plate was there for a purpose and contributed to a glorious whole. After this, I hesitated over the cheese. Still, I was glad I yielded, when I put into my mouth a sliver of superb Comté. To end, a lemon tartlet with an egg white sorbet and a chocolate confection with a clementine sorbet – both of surpassing loveliness.
My white was a burgundy, but from one of the communes in the Côte de Nuits famous for its red wines. This Morey St-Denis (Dom. Dujac, 2000 – 179 frs) gave off a gorgeous and astonishing nose, with toffee and over-cooked toast. In the mouth it was minerally, light and elegant. Its aftertaste was buttery and long. My red was from South West France, a Coteaux du Languedoc with a nose redolent of a damp cellar, but with overtones of mint, full of ripe black fruit in the mouth and yielding masses of residual sweetness (Clos Syrah Léone, Dom. Peyre Rose, Marlène Soria, 1996 – 168 frs). Impressive drinking. I have enjoyed this rave. And I think I am right to rave. This dining room and its brilliant chef, Frabrice Vulin, should be celebrated with flags and processions and brass bands. Three cheers for the Restaurant du Parc des Eaux-Vives!
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RESTAURANT DU PARC DES EAUX-VIVES |
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© Francis Bown 2003
I enjoy a rave from time to time. I am not here confessing to occasional attendance at noisy discotheques. Heaven forfend. No, I mean that I find pleasure in occasionally losing my head with enthusiasm for the talents of others. In the present case, my rave is for a gentleman called Fabrice Vulin. Monsieur Vulin works in Geneva. This is where I encountered him, at the stoves of the Restaurant du Parc des Eaux-Vives. I salute him. He is a chef of rare brilliance, and his is a cuisine of remarkable refinement. I am full of admiration for his talent and for his intelligence. I am now, in short, a fan.
A brief history of the establishment is in order. Built in the 18 th century, the mansion and its grounds command a fine view of the lake. It became a restaurant around 1900 and was acquired by the City of Geneva in 1931. Major restoration was required after a serious fire in 1999. For its re-opening in 2003, Monsieur Vulin – at that time working at the famous Restaurant Pic in Valence – was tempted from France to take control of the kitchen of the first floor restaurant (a brasserie occupies the ground floor and half a dozen bedrooms occupy the second floor). A year later the first Michelin star was awarded. More remarkably, after only another year, the second Michelin star appeared. Clearly, the world was beginning to realise that something of significance was happening at the Parc des Eaux-Vives.
Not delights, but a succession of gastronomic masterpieces – brought to my table by head waiter Sebastien Laloi. A four course menu can be had for 135 francs. My own meal was the ‘Autumn Flavours’ menu at 210 francs. It began with one of the best foie gras dishes I have ever eaten – the gorgeous cold duck liver partnered with a pear poached in red wine and spices. The sheer quality of what was on the plate was thrilling. Then scallops, with cauliflower and caviar – a judicious combination, to be sure, with the slight asperity of the caviar set against the sweetness of the shellfish, but it was the excellence of the execution which really impressed. Next, a fillet of John Dory, perfectly cooked, with chestnuts, ham and a ‘carpaccio’ of cep mushrooms. Quite delicious, but – for my palate – the chestnuts and the ham were distractions. (I spoke to Chef Vulin after dinner and urged him to simplify it, and take it from the exceptionally good to the sublime.)
To partner food of this quality, great wines are needed. Around 400 (mainly French) offerings appear on the list, with Bordeaux supplying the strongest section. Lovers of claret will be happy with the following: 1945 Cos d’Estournel (990 frs), 1982 Lafite (1,850 frs), 1986 Margaux (1,250 frs), 1986 Ausone (630 frs), 1989 Cheval Blanc (1,190 frs), 1995 Le Pin (2,890 frs) and 1995 Pétrus (2,650 frs). Sommelier Olivier Communay is from Paris. He is a fine young fellow, full of knowledge and enthusiasm, a real asset to this great restaurant. I am grateful to him for introducing me to two glorious wines.