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SAN FRANCISCO MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL
As soon as I entered the hotel lobby, every member of staff seemed to know my name and take pleasure in using it. Indeed, friendliness and efficiency marked every member of staff I encountered during my stay. Clearly, the General Manager, Salvador Abaunza (pictured) is doing a fine job. These initial salutations were, of course, on the ground floor, an area of sparkling marble and gleaming wood. But the greater part of the hotel is way above, on the top eleven floors of San Francisco’s third tallest skyscraper. We are here in the city’s Financial District, an area which has much of the impressive verticality of downtown New York. (Do not think, however, that this is a district without art. Just across the street, I went up to the 10th floor of what used to be the Stock Exchange to see, next to an Art Déco staircase, one of the masterpieces of 20th century painting – Diego Rivera’s mural, Allegory of California [pictured].) An express lift whizzed me up to the 38th floor of the hotel. (And I do mean ‘whizzed’: these machines travel at astonishing speed.) And there was room 3818, the beautiful Taipan Suite ($2,750 a night, breakfast extra), which must certainly be one of the most stylish modern hotel apartments in San Francisco. Its colours were warm – reds, greens, browns and creams. By its entrance was a private cloakroom, useful for visitors. On the hardwood floor of the dining hall stood a round table with four chairs, next to which was the sitting room, with sofas for half a dozen (pictured). Table lamps and spotlights provided the effective (and controllable) lighting. The television and music centre (a facility repeated in the bedroom) would have done all sorts of wonderful things, but I am a simple soul, so I merely tuned it to the local classical music station (102.1fm) and was immediately uplifted by the strains of Maurice Duruflé’s Requiem. Off the sitting room was a butler’s pantry, where the staff could have prepared the food, had I wished to entertain friends.
Both my breakfasts and dinner were consumed in the Silks Restaurant (pictured), on the 2nd floor, where Milan Drager, the Food & Beverage Manager from Hamburg, looked after me with admirable enthusiasm. The décor – by Cheryl Rowley – was inspired by the journey of Marco Polo to the court of Kubla Khan. I found it discreetly elegant. For dinner, I tried to sit in one of the booths, on a banquette, but my back demanded that I move to one of the capacious armchairs and have a cushion. Thus settled, I became aware that the canned music – modern jazz, of the more depressing sort – was not to my liking. The staff, therefore – attentive as ever – changed it to something from the 19th century. This was much more suitable for a chamber with off-white tablecloths and fine Spiegelau glassware, and in which the napkins were changed when diners left the table for a moment.
Wine Director Nicole Kosta presides over a list which spans the world – including German riesling, Australian shiraz and Japanese saki. Prices run from $24 for a Chilean sauvignon blanc to $2,600 for 1983 Haut Brion. The following bottles caught my eye: 2004 Ornellaia ($300), 2003 Tignanello ($140), 2003 Harlan Estate cabernet ($950) and 2002 Bâtard-Montrachet, Louis Latour ($550). The affable Assistant Sommelier Arun Ouneklap, from Thailand , led me to one of the excellent Rieslings from Germany – with peaches, white plums, over-ripe melons and just a hint of petrol (Auslese, Dr Wiens-Prüm, Mosel, 2005 - $70) – and to a red burgundy with an enchanting nose of runny, soft white cheese (Gevrey-Chambertin, Gérard Seguin, Craipillots, Pemier Cru, 2000 - $85). There is no buffet at breakfast. All is brought to the table. Depending on your appetite, the cost is likely to be $25-$50. My orange juice came in a carafe and my Earl Grey tea was in an attractive porcelain pot. In these thoroughly civilized surroundings, I tucked into porridge, sliced melon, mushrooms on toast and excellent croissants. As usual, the service was exemplary. In fact, everything about the Mandarin Oriental San Francisco was exemplary. That is why I am so looking forward to the next time when I open my note and read those two happy words: ‘Welcome home’.
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ADDRESSES MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTEL
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© Francis Bown 2003
‘Welcome home.’ The note from the manager waiting for me in my suite said it all, really. There on the desk was the writing paper, printed with my name. On the bed was the pillow, embroidered with a ‘B’, in honour of my family name. Such courtesy and kindness did, indeed, make me feel welcome and at home. One of the books on the coffee table was entitled The World’s Best Hotels. It included the hostelry at which I had just arrived. As Julius Caesar nearly said in his famous message from Gaul: Veni. Vidi. Concordavi. I came. I saw. I concurred. For, in very truth, the Mandarin Oriental in San Francisco is undoubtedly one of the best hotels in the world.
The bedroom – its wonderfully soft and caressing bed dressed with sheets of the highest quality – led to a dressing area and the fitted wardrobes (with those useful items: a safe, an iron and an ironing board), and thence to the bathroom. Here was a curving essay in marble of grey and green, with a separate loo, a separate shower (with a clothes line), Molton Brown toiletries and a tub of good size (with a jacuzzi facility). Both the bedroom and the bathroom possessed proper clocks. For some reason, I like to look at the time when I am bathing. Here, during my soak, I could see the dial only via a mirror, which afforded me some modest mental exercise, as I attempted to read the face backwards. (This is not as easy as it sounds.)
Now let me describe for you the most marvellous part of this suite: its terrace. I have provided for you two photographs. One gives an impression of its size, which I considered sufficient for a modest embassy ball. (It would certainly have accommodated a very large number of well-dressed persons and their champagne flutes.) The other shows your correspondent, looking properly pleased to be able to enjoy such a remarkable panorama from his very own billet. (Provided for my use were both a pair of binoculars and a telescope.) Beyond the buildings you can see, are the waters of the Bay and then the distant hills. I have been privileged to stay in many luxurious suites in my travels, but to have this terrace at my disposal felt like a real privilege. 
Chef de Cuisine Orlando Pagan offers a five course menu for $145. I chose four courses, for around $100. Sonoma baby greens with toy box tomatoes and a creamy vinaigrette made a refreshing start, and contrasted with the richness of the following scallop and belly pork. The kitchen likes to add an Oriental note to its dishes. Here it was namasu – a Vietnamese pickle, rather like coleslaw. Roasted rib of beef offered properly robust flavours, and my meal ended with peach cobbler, with vanilla corn bread and sweet corn ice cream. This was well-presented and enjoyable food.
