|
Contact: info@bownsbest.com
Home - Austria - Benelux - France & Monaco - Germany - Spain - Sweden - Switzerland - United Kingdom - United States |
||
|
VENICE LONDRA PALACE HOTEL
Tchaikovsky liked this place and found inspiration here, too. In room 106, in 1877, he wrote the first three movements of his fourth symphony. That, of course, was before Victor Emmanuel took up position outside, so the great man would have had to be content with the views over the water. Then the hotel was called the Albergo Bella Riva et Pension; it has been known as the Londra Palace only since 1973. With 100 windows overlooking the Lagoon, this is an establishment which has always attracted those who care about what they see from their rooms. The famous panorama was certainly on offer in room 214. On the second floor, this was an air-conditioned ‘Double Deluxe Lagoon View’ (430-610 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season). Its Venetian colours of red and gold were set off by pieces of reproduction mahogany furniture. To the right of the entrance was a walk-in wardrobe with a safe. On the walls were a couple of decent oil paintings (one of a domestic interior). In the pink and brown marble bathroom were spotlights, one wash basin and large white bath towels. This was a comfortable billet, but its size was modest. My advice would be to spend a little more for one of the spacious Junior Suites (530-760 euros a night, according to season). I can recommend number 510, pictured, in which I stayed on a previous visit. At my first breakfast I had a pleasant surprise, for there was Samuel Basten. I last encountered Mr Basten when he was at The Danieli. Now he is the maitre d’ at the Londra Palace. He is an excellent fellow, both friendly and efficient – as were the other members of staff I encountered. (The General Manager, Mauro Zanotti, is obviously doing a good job.) Although there is a terrace for breakfasting alfresco, I made it my habit to stay inside, with my close friend, Mr Air Conditioning. (I regard his soothing presence as one of Science’s more notable achievements.) From the buffet I secured dishes of melon, pineapple and poached pear and plates of ham and cheese. All were of good quality. To my table waiters and waitresses in striped waistcoats brought coffee in white porcelain pots (made by Rosenthal) and glasses of my requested, freshly-squeezed orange juice (spremuta d’arancia).
Chef Indri divides his menu into three sections: The Classics, The Tradition and The Season. I chose from the last, and ate well. Beef carpaccio with rocket and parmesan came on a square plate of glass and spoke clearly of the high quality of its ingredients. Fresh pasta from Apulia with turnip tops, pork cheek and smoked ricotta was just what you want in a pasta dish – a satisfying and filling combination of interesting flavours. The fillet steak was a fine, tasty piece of meat, set off well by a garlic herb sauce and French beans. And the best came last – a super pudding of strawberry crèpes, banana au gratin and vanilla ice cream, looking wonderful on its round black plate. (These four courses were 83 euros.) I counted about 140 offerings on the wine list. Apart from the champagnes, they are Italian. Prices range from 27 euros for a white from the Marche to 300 euros for Christal champage and 315 euros for 1998 Amarone Classico, Quintarelli. Those of you who like the super-Tuscans can have 2000 Tignanello (150 euros), 2002 Solaia (190 euros) and 2003 Sassicaia (220 euros). I decided upon some good, yeasty champagne (Pommery brut, 45 euros, half) and a wonderful red, with a perfumed nose, lots of ripe black cherries and well-balanced acidity (Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Quintarelli, 1999 – 75 euros). After dinner I walked out into the warm evening and paused to look up at King Victor Emmanuel II. He looked as if he was used to being at the centre of things. I thought he deserved this grand location. And so did I. That is why I was happy to be at the Londra Palace.
|
|
ADDRESSES
LONDRA PALACE HOTEL
|
||
| Home - Austria - Benelux - France & Monaco - Germany - Italy - Spain - Sweden - Switzerland - United Kingdom - United States |
© Francis Bown 2003
King Victor Emmanuel II of Italy was a man after my own heart. He loved the best locations. Or, to be more accurate, his monuments did. In Rome, the vast white ‘wedding cake’ dominates the sky-line in a manner which is not to everyone’s taste (although I am all for it). In Venice, he has done nearly as well. Since 1887, when the statue by Ettore Ferrari was erected, he has been sitting on his horse, with a sword in his hand, right in the middle of the riva degli Schiavoni. Earth hath few places to show more fair. Straight ahead, the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Square is a trot of fifty yards. To the King’s left, on the other side of the waters of the Bacino di San Marco, is the exquisite façade of the church of San Giorgio Maggiore. And on the royal right is the front of one of the finest of Venetian hostelries, the Londra Palace Hotel.
Each morning I watched as group after group of eager sightseers gathered by the monument, before setting off on their walking tours. They had sailed in from the Lido, or further afield, in the hot sun: I had simply to step through the electrically-operated doors of the Londra Palace to be in the heart of things. They were standing in the fierce heat: I was in an armchair of the Biedermeier style, in the white elegance of the hotel’s cool public rooms, next to Corinthian pilasters. I thought I had the better of it.
Sadly, I did not encounter the lady you can see, adorning the outside space of the apartment – but I did have the pleasure of reading on the same terrace, which enjoys a 270 degree view of the city.
The restaurant in which I enjoyed these leisurely starts to the day is called Do Leoni. This means ‘Two Lions’ and was the name given by Tchaikovsky to his fourth symphony. (The Two Lions he had in mind were the Lion of St Mark, Venice’s patron, and that ‘Lion’ of a poet, Gabriele d’Annunzio.) After some sightseeing of the most leisurely sort – no conducted marches for me, thank you – I returned to this handsome room for dinner, and was looked after very well by the Assistant Maitre d’ Luca Bisaro. Green and silver silk on the walls, beige tablecloths, Schott glassware and vases of white gladioli created a pleasing atmosphere in which to sample the food of Executive Chef Loris Indri. 