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CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA L’AUBERGE CARMEL & RESTAURANT AUBERGINE
I first met Mr Fink when he was the General Manager of the Highlands Inn, near Carmel. There he was the moving spirit behind the annual Masters of Food and Wine event. It is a joy now to see him as the proprietor of his very own establishment, housed in a handsome building of 1929. L’Auberge Carmel has rapidly matured into probably the finest small hotel in California. With its white and green colours, abundance of flowers and complicated roof-line, externally L’Auberge is reminiscent of a village inn in Alsace. Inside, however, all is sophistication and pampering – which is precisely how I like my hotels. I found room 20 ($575 a night, bed and breakfast for two) on the first floor, overlooking the fountain and the stone elephant, both of which reside in the building’s pretty inner courtyard. This apartment was very much to my taste. Its tones of grey and brown were soothing and its armchairs were comfortable. I soon discovered, too, that the huge mahogany bed was wonderfully soft and that its sheets were silkily smooth. The black and white photographs on the walls depicted the sea, for I was only four blocks from Carmel beach and the Pacific Ocean. Behind the louvred doors were a private safe, an iron and ironing board and sufficient hanging space, even for me. In the corner of the room was a sink with a marble-topped cabinet. The only thing lacking in this bedroom was a full-length mirror for dressing. (I mentioned this omission to Mrs Fink, so I think the lack will be supplied quite soon.)
It was a delight to sit in my apartment in the mornings, with the wireless tuned to 103.9fm (the classical music station), and enjoy a bit of Beethoven, as a soft breeze wafted through the open windows. (The rooms at L’Auberge do not have air conditioning, but the gentle climate of Carmel has never allowed me to regret its absence.)
The comparison is apt, for this small dining room (it has only 12 tables) is, in fact, the Restaurant Aubergine, the domain of Executive Chef Christophe Grosjean (pictured). The Michelin inspectors have not yet ventured as far south in California as Carmel. If they did, they would certainly be reaching in their bags for stars after their visit to Aubergine.
‘Heirloom tomato and halibut’ brought smoked lemon tomato, socca, zucchini and line-caught local halibut – the gorgeous texture of the fish revealing the precision of its cooking. ‘Truffle and chanterelles’ consisted of green and yellow wax beans, crisp shallots, summer truffles and chanterelles – a confection as tasty as it was satisfying. Then it was ‘beet and duck’ – turnip purée, candy-striped beet, wild huckleberry, foie gras and roasted duck breast – a combination of appealing tastes and textures. My concluding plate of braised blackberries, cheesecake and peach sorbet was deliciously simple and simply delicious. Wine Director Thomas Perez has built up a cellar of 4,500 bottles, with prices ranging from $40 for a Sardinian white to $7,200 for the 2000 vintage of DRC Montrachet. (David Fink is a lover of such burgundies, and is not a claret man. Even so, there are still classics from Bordeaux – like 1982 Château Margaux at $2,490.) This list is a real treat for the burgundian party and for those of us who love the sweet wines of Germany – August Kesseler’s 1999 trockenbeerenauslese from the Rheingau is $1,800. My white was a superb German Riesling of the drier sort, with lovely acidity and notes of petrol (Auslese, Von Hövel, Scharzhofberger, 2004 - $70), and my red was a delicate, perfumed 1968 rioja, with typical tones of vanilla (Viña Valoria, Logroño - $325).
The wine list is a dazzling array of Italian bottles (and 25 offerings by the glass from $5). Here are some which caught my eye: 1997 Solaia ($670), 1998 Ornellaia ($460), 1995 Sassicaia ($600) and 1985 Sori Tildin, Gaja ($1,340). I quaffed a big, tannic red from Umbria – Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli, 2004.
With these liquid delights, the staff in black waistcoats brought to my booth four courses of proper bistro food, prepared by Chef de Cuisine Jesse Kloskey. A tomato salad with arugula, basil, watermelon and balsamic vinegar, was a colourful presentation on a rectangular glass plate. Clearly, the chef has a good supplier of beef. Beef tartare was its proper self, and the steak frites featured one of the tastiest pieces of meat I have eaten for some time. With chips, watercress and béarnaise sauce, this was a fine dish indeed. I finished, as you should in a bistro, with a slice of lemon tart. ($65 for these four courses.) Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of California’s gems. Its charms rightly attract many visitors. Thanks to the talents of David and Kathleen Fink, those visitors can enjoy hospitality of the very highest order – at L’Auberge Carmel, Restaurant Aubergine, Cantinetta Luca and Bouchée. It is true: nothing succeeds like excess.
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ADDRESSES L’AUBERGE CARMEL & RESTAURANT AUBERGINE CANTINETTA LUCA BOUCHÉE CARMEL
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© Francis Bown 2003
Nothing succeeds like excess. And when that excess is of the talents of an hotelier, restaurateur and host, the result is a good deed in a naughty world. Actually, I should say several good deeds, for the talented gentleman in question has given the exquisite little town of Carmel-by-the-Sea not only a lovely place in which to lay one’s head, but also three very good restaurants. Indeed, the blessings multiply further – for his wife is a talented designer (and singer, as I discovered when I joined the happy pair for cocktails one evening) and has imparted her gracious style to the enterprises. They deserve to be called Mr and Mrs Carmel. In fact, they are David and Kathleen Fink, and I am delighted to bring before you their picture. I have recently spent my 60th birthday at their hotel, and I cannot think of anywhere I would rather have spent this significant anniversary.
My bathroom was a splendid chamber, impressive in both size and equipment. Here there was much use of limestone, which provided a pleasing backdrop for so many white, fluffy towels. I have developed a taste for free-standing bath tubs, and this one was a fine piece. A separate shower and a separate loo completed the ensemble. One small example will serve to illustrate the thoughtful attention which is manifested throughout the property. In the loo was a mahogany rack, complete with a glossy magazine about interior decoration. 
Breakfast at L’Auberge is served in the small dining room. It differs each day. One typical breakfast consisted of a glass of fresh orange juice, poached eggs on toast, yoghurt with apricot compote, croissants, blackcurrant jam and coffee. These items – all of the highest quality – are brought by waiters and laid on fine white tablecloths. The effect is very much what you would expect of a grand, Michelin-starred ‘restaurant-with-rooms’ in France. 
Monsieur Grosjean comes from the Franche-Comté region of France, and used to work with Chef Cal Stamenov at Bernadus Lodge in the Carmel Valley. I found his cuisine to be well-conceived, prettily presented and expertly executed. His menu offers nine starters, four main courses, cheese and four puddings. 3 courses cost $69, four courses $89 and 5 courses $110. Sitting on a brown banquette, under spotlights, surrounded by paintings of musicians in the Art Déco style and watching the waiters in black tie and white gloves, I thought I was going to enjoy my dinner, And I did.
I found less formal wining and dining at Cantinetta Luca, Mr Fink’s Italian restaurant in Dolores Street. Here the emphasis is on rustic presentation and the décor makes much use of wooden beams, stone, brick and glass. This is a very popular place indeed, and the sound from all the enthusiastic diners and the canned music can take the noise level rather high. But do not be put off, for the eating is of a high order and the service from Manager Giuseppe Panzuto from Naples (pictured) is friendly and efficient.
From the open kitchen Executive Chef Jason Balestrieri sent to my wooden table some really impressive dishes, offering superb ingredients, simply prepared to bring out bold, direct flavours. San Daniele prosciutto with organic figs and gorgonzola cheese was first class. (Cantinetta Luca offers some wonderful prepared meats. I also tried what we English call brawn, which was really super.) Tagliatelli with porcini mushrooms, peas and pecorino cheese looked as gorgeous as pasta should and was delicious. My main course was braised Colorado lamb shank with olives and rosemary, a decadently rich and tender piece of meat, served in an iron pot. The pudding – a tasty tiramisù – came in a large coffee cup. (Allow around $60 or 4 courses.) 
From Italy on Dolores Street I went to France on Mission Street. Bouchée was David Fink’s first restaurant in Carmel. It now serves classic bistro dishes and possesses, yet again, a remarkable cellar, this time with offerings from around the world. (Who would ever guess that Mr Fink is a serious wine connoisseur? Next door to Bouchée he has Bouchée Wine Merchants.) Here is a flavour of its bounty: 2005 Montrachet, Amiot ($1,230), 1990 Richebourg, DRC ($4,000), 1961 Lafite ($2,000) and 2000 Harlan Estate cabernet ($1,000).
Sommelière Katherine Chadwell, a local lady who returned to Carmel after spending four years in Italy with winemakers, poured into the Schott glasses two Californian wines: an elegant, minerally chardonnay from the Anderson Valley (Radio Coteau, Savoy, 2006 - $110) and a complex, luscious, beautifully structured, Napa cabernet, oozing with ripe blackcurrants and black cherries (Frias, Spring Mountain, 2005 - $130). 