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CALIFORNIA CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA L’AUBERGE CARMEL
Doubtless influenced by the European appearance of L’Auberge, I parked outside facing the wrong way. This is a sin greatly frowned upon in California, but the hotel staff spotted my mistake at once and speedily whisked my car out of sight – the meanwhile offering me a glass of fruit soda (which is made daily on the premises). Then I was shown across the inner courtyard, past the fountain and the statue of an elephant, to room number 19 ($495 a night, bed and breakfast for two). Here, as throughout the hotel, the décor is the work of Kathleen Fink, David’s wife. And fine work it is. My afternoon doze was made the more pleasurable by the sound of the fountain’s dribbling water, drifting through my open window. Then it was time to prepare myself for dinner. I wanted to look my best, for the small restaurant (there are just 12 tables) is a smart room, which upholds sartorial as well as gastronomic standards. Suitably scrubbed and suited, I walked back across the courtyard to the dining room. There, under discreet spotlights, I surveyed the scene. Before me was a white tablecloth, on which stood Spiegelau glasses and a single glass candlestick with a red candle. On the walls were paintings of musicians in black tie. Around the room moved waiters in black shirts and white gloves, who were careful to replace the napkin of any guest who momentarily left the table. This was a stage set for a serious performance. And that is precisely what it got.
On one point Chef Manzke and I disagree. He likes his French food to be influenced by the produce and flavours of non-French cultures. I do not. Still, I had to admire the expertise and delicacy with which he expressed this enthusiasm in the dishes which came before me. Even my palate responded positively to the ‘deconstructed lobster taco’ and to the course which consisted of tiny portions of Thai curry-shellfish soup, king prawn satay and green papaya salad, spring roll and spicy peanut sauce, and crispy jasmine rice and cucumber. (You will note that this kitchen does not mind hard work.)
With so good a kitchen, you would expect an impressive cellar. And such there is. Prices begin at $32 for a German riesling and climb gracefully up to $3,200 for the 2002 vintage of Romanée-Conti. In between are some of the choicest wines from France, California and Germany. France yields up first growth clarets from the finest vintages – like 1982 Latour ($1,425) and 1982 Mouton Rothschild ($1,375) – and California provides some of its famous cabernets – like the 1996 Harlan Estate ($975) and 1978 Ridge-Montebello ($1,000). It was good, too, to see 8 German sweet wines, including the 1999 Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese from August Kesseler ($1,800).
It was back to the dining room the following morning for breakfast. The waiters were now in light blue shirts and some canned jazz music added a little bounce to the atmosphere. Here I was brought yoghurt, orange juice, a coddled egg, toast, warm croissants, cranberry jam and coffee in a chromium pot. Each of these was as good as you would find in a really grand ‘restaurant with rooms’ in France – which is high praise. The key word in that last sentence is ‘France’. For L’Auberge Carmel is truly what David Fink set out to create – a piece of finest France in the prettiest town in California. I salute him for his remarkable achievement. He has every reason to be a happy man.
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ADDRESSES L’AUBERGE CARMEL
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© Francis Bown 2003
Happy is the man who achieves his dearest ambition. Perhaps that is why hotelier David Fink is smiling so broadly as he stands next to your correspondent in the photograph. Mr Fink’s ambition was to create a piece of finest France in the prettiest town in California. And, at the corner of Monte Verde and Seventh Streets in Carmel-by-the-Sea, he has done precisely that. His small and exclusive hotel, L’Auberge Carmel, is a haven of European-style luxury and sophistication. It also possesses a great chef whose cuisine is truly remarkable. In France this establishment would bring prestige to its region: in California it brings smiles of delight to all those who have the good fortune to stay and eat within its walls.
Built in 1929 as Sundial Lodge, L’Auberge Carmel occupies a prestigious site next to the town hall. With 20 bedrooms, the hotel is one of the larger buildings in this wealthy community. With its white and green exterior and its abundance of gables, you might suppose that it had been transported from Alsace. Yet it seems to fit very well into its surroundings. For Carmel is no ordinary seaside town – rather, it is a place of art galleries, clothing boutiques and very expensive (but relatively small) homes. I derive much pleasure from strolling down its main street. The warm embrace of so much affluence brings me comfort. And it is a joy to see a place which is not only so attractive but also so well cared for.
Everywhere in this apartment of grey, brown and gold I sensed her style and panache – in the black and white photograph of Big Sur, in the framed ancient keys on the wall and in the clock in the form of an up-turned rubber stamp. The bathroom was similarly smart and sophisticated, with a capacious, free-standing tub, a wash basin of zinc and a walk-in shower.
Walter Manzke (pictured) is a great chef. That was evident when he was the Executive Chef at the famous Patina in Los Angeles. It is even more evident now that he mans the stoves here. (He also oversees the food at David Fink’s other restaurants in Carmel – Bouchée and Cantinetta Lucca.) His food at L’Auberge is conceived with intelligence, prepared with the utmost skill and presented with a nod to Japanese aesthetics. His 9 course set dinner (there is no carte) costs 110 dollars and must be considered very good value.
Yet it was in the more straightforwardly French-leaning dishes that I found the most intense enjoyment. The course which combined cucumber (substituted for oyster, which I cannot eat), egg yolk, grated carrot, green apple juice and caviar was quite superb, as was the combination of the sweetest pigeon breast with huckleberries and foie gras. I liked, too, the lamb with stuffed tomato and rosemary jus. And the muscato zabaglione with figs and honey ice cream was the sort of brilliant finale which will always send diners away very happy indeed. This was, without doubt, a meal prepared by a master of the culinary arts.
Sommelier Thomas Perez is full of charm as well as knowledge. He recommended a super Sonoma Coast chardonnay (Aubert, Ritchie Vineyard, 2003 - $95) which burst open in the glass, with lots of toast and nuttiness. My red was just as bold – the Frais Family Vineyards Private Reserve, Spring Mountain cabernet ($135) – with a full-bodied roundness and an extraordinary depth of black fruit.