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ROME RESTAURANT LA MIRABELLE
I noticed, as I walked to the lift through all the gilt and marble (and I urge you to notice, too), the large chandelier of Murano crystal. Had I seen it somewhere before? Why, of course – it was the chandelier used by Visconti for the ballroom scene of his famous film, The Leopard. (Yes, I admit this had to be pointed out to me; but I had already observed what a fine piece it was.) I stepped out at the 7th floor and, as is my custom before sitting down for lunch, went off to the loo to wash my hands. Be sure to visit this little apartment. It is quite the most exquisite loo you will find. Indeed, it is a tiny jewel box of a loo. It put me into a festive mood, as Antonio Serino, my friendly waiter, showed me to my table.
I tried one of the nibbles which had been placed on the table, a tiny warm pizza, and thought at once that I was going to like this meal.
And it was made even more enjoyable by some good wine. Sommelier Giovanni Curcio looked smart in the black uniform of his profession. He presides over a list which is mostly Italian, but which has a page and a half of the usual suspects from abroad (like 1999 Opus One at 750 euros). The knowledgeable Signor Curcio talked with enthusiasm about his wines and recommended two bottles from Sicily. The white was bright and clear and clean, with hints of lychees – a super foil for the pasta (Insolia, Principi di Butera, 2004 – 60 euros). And the red, purple and highly perfumed, exhibited that characteristic ripening in the glass I often find with Sicilian red wines (Chiaramonte, Nero d’Avola, Firriato, 2003 – 47 euros). Sunday in Rome. It conjures up glorious memories and expectations. And now they include lunch at a wonderful restaurant, La Mirabelle.
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ADDRESSES
LA MIRABELLE
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© Francis Bown 2003
Sunday in Rome. These three words have a certain magic, do they not? Particularly for those of us of a Catholic turn of faith. But even for those of other religions and none, the clanging of bells and the whiff of incense must be a heady mixture. For me, the Lord’s Day in the Eternal City brings two imperatives: to go to a celebration of Mass, preferably of the old-fashioned kind, and to seek out a jolly good lunch. Soul and body must both be fed. For the Mass invariably I go to the small Baroque church of Jesu e Maria on the via del Corso, near the piazza del Popolo. Here there is a Tridentine Mass at ten o’clock, as resolutely traditional as are my own ecclesiastical inclinations. And now I have found the perfect place for my Roman Sunday lunch: La Mirabelle.
It took my taxi only six minutes to transport me from the piazza del Popolo up the hill to the door of the Hotel Splendide Royal. Inside, I found the décor to be nearly as sumptuous as that of the church in which I had attended divine worship. Indeed, some might consider it ‘over the top’. But I loved it. This 19th century palace was once home to Rome’s Maronite community (a Christian group from the Lebanon). I suspect it looks rather different now. If, like me, you like your furnishings on the lavish side, you will feel very comfortable here. 
And there before me was another good reason for high spirits: the loveliest panorama of Rome I have seen. I think I must have been looking due east, for the top of the distant façade of St Peter’s basilica was directly facing me. It took me a few moments before I could drag my eyes away from this glorious vista. When I did, I surveyed the room and was taken with what I saw. Sensibly, with so much beauty outside, numerous mirrors have been placed at strategic points. The tablecloths were light gold, the glasses were by Riedel (the Restaurant range) and the white and green crockery was by Schönwald. I sat back in the elegant fauteuil and watched as the waiters in their black ties and aprons lifted silver domes at nearby tables. They were marshalled by the charming Restaurant Manager, Bruno Borghesi. I thought he looked familiar. And he was. The fine fellow worked at The Ritz some years ago.
I was right. Chef Giuseppe Sestito cooks his well-sourced ingedients with precision and care. My opening warm escalope of goose foie gras came with mango – the two luscious flavours complementing each other to good effect, and balanced well by a citrus fruit salad. Next, of course, was pasta – tortelli, filled with ricotta and taleggio cheeses, and gratinated with truffle purée – gorgeously rich and tasty. Then it was pigeon breast, pink within puff pastry and served with a truffled sauce. And finally, I tucked into well-made coffee mousse with ginger ice cream. (113 euros for these four courses.) A thoroughly enjoyable Sunday lunch.