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ITALY PORTOFINO HOTEL SPLENDIDO
From the hallway an arch let into the bed-sitting room, which I paced out at about 18 feet by 16 feet. Certainly, there was plenty of space for a two-seater sofa, an easy chair and a small dining table with two chairs, as well as the bed (which had been made wonderfully soft and yielding for my silly back). Lighting was provided by 6 table lamps, a five-light chandelier and spotlights. The television, upon which I was able to play my cds of Sir Edward Elgar’s music, rose vertically from its cabinet at the touch of a button. The air-conditioning was quietly efficient and the colour scheme – of white, with touches of pink – was delightful. And then, through the two French windows, there was my balcony and the view. I do hope that the photograph – taken just before I went down to dinner, hence my black tie – gives a least some idea of the loveliness of the panorama. But you do really need to go to see it for yourself, for neither my words nor my pictures can do it justice. Let me say merely that it is life-enhancing. Back at The Splendido for dinner – once again on the restaurant terrace, but this time captivated by the darkening sky and the twinkling lights down by the harbor, now far below – my comestibles were of the grander sort. Chef Corrado Corti takes the very finest ingredients and produces really good, traditional food which is entirely appropriate to these luxurious surroundings. I tucked in with gusto to a generous helping of lobster and prawn salad with rosemary flavoured olive oil, a dish which tasted and looked lovely. Then came pasta as I like it – soft and yielding – in linguine with pesto, potatoes and I hope that when you go to The Splendido you will notice – discreetly, of course – my portrait in the bar. It is of a man who has had the privilege of staying at many of the world’s grandest hotels and who knows perfection when he sees it. And that is what he found at The Splendido – perfection. |
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ADDRESSES
HOTEL SPLENDIDO
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© Francis Bown 2003
On a previous visit to this most exquisite of Europe’s luxury hotels, I observed that it lacked only one item in its determined pursuit of perfection. The walls of the hotel bar were decorated with black and white photographs of those film stars and other notable folk who had stayed at The Splendido. 
But why did I feel that this impressive gallery of former guests – persons of impeccable taste all – introduced a note of imperfection? Because, dear friends, it did not include a portrait of your correspondent. During my recent stay this shocking omission was remedied. Thus I cannot resist bringing before you two photographs: one records the historic moment when I handed over to Mr Ermes De Megni, the brilliant Manager of The Splendido, the study which had been taken specially for the purpose by one of England’s most distinguished photographers, Jack Hill; and the other shows my portrait in situ. In the latter, you will observe that I am next to two famous cinematic thespians, Monica Vitti and Alain Delon. It is therefore the moment for my judgement to be made public: The Splendido is the perfect hotel. 
With the sun shining its radiant best, it was clear once more why The Splendido’s location has been so popular for so many centuries. It looks over one of the prettiest little bays in the world. Monks built their monastery here. They abandoned it in the 16th century, not because they had tired of its charms, but because they were attacked too often by Saracen pirates. Eventually, Baron Baratta built his summer home on the same spot. Then the hotel opened in 1901. Before long it was crowded by persons of means and discernment. Winston Churchill, Rex Harrison, the Duke of Windsor, Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Elizabeth Taylor – these and many, many more of the world’s finest have sought out a room at The Splendido.
My own billet was on the second floor of the main building. Room 229 (pictured) was a ‘Junior Suite Executive’ (and therefore 2,161 – 2,700 euros a night, half-board for two, according to season). It was, like the entire hotel, pristine, sparkling and so charmingly decorated and furnished that I immediately felt that it was home. The vase of pink roses, the proper clock by the bedside, the private safe behind the framed picture of lathyrus odorator – such details spoke of accommodation into which enormous care and attention had been poured.
And so, in its own way, was the bathroom (pictured). I am a devotee of the long soak, particularly when, as here, it can be done in a chamber with grey marble and unguents supplied by Messrs Bulgari and Penhaligon. The tub was of a fine size, and the temperature control on the taps worked with admirable precision. With two wash basins, a separate shower and a separate loo with a bidet, this was a bathroom for those of us who enjoy our ablutions. 
And The Splendido is also a place for those of us who love breakfast. Occasionally, it grieves me to notice that fellow hotel guests not only rush through this most important meal, but also dress for it in a way which suggests that they are addicted to the worst excesses of Casualness. There was little of this at The Splendido – and no wonder, for the terrace of the restaurant is a superb spot for one’s morning comestibles. And the comestibles themselves – all of them – are of the very highest quality. The friendly members of staff – including Fabrizio Vario from Sicily (pictured), the 3rd maitre d’ – brought to me pots of coffee, bowls of ice, cappuccini, dishes of porridge (made from water, not milk) and servings (at my special request) of delicious grilled sea bass with mushrooms. From the buffet, I obtained bowls of melon, pineapple, strawberries and raspberries, dishes of Rice Crispies, slices of crusty bread and fruit tart and scoops of gorgeous marmalade. I start my days properly at The Splendido. 
I present to you a picture of the maitre d’ Luca Calvia, smart in his spectacles. He presided over these happy occasions with skill and flair, and I owe him a particular word of thanks. The seats on the restaurant terrace were difficult for my back. Mr Calvia therefore ensured that a chair and a cushion from the dining room were awaiting my arrival each morning. Service at The Splendido is kind, courteous and efficient.
After these wonderful beginnings, my days at The Splendido were spent either in pottering about its garden terraces or, after taking the hotel shuttle ‘bus for the five minute journey down the hill, in looking at the quaint sights of Portofino. In the latter I made it my habit to indulge in some ice cream and coffee at Il Molo by the water’s edge. These were served to me by the town’s famous twin brothers, Paolo and Matteo Giovannini, who are keen rowers. One of the pleasures of sitting at their family gelateria is in watching the little boats which come and go from the passing cruise ships, which like to send their passengers to enjoy an hour or so of the Portofino magic. 
French beans, with all the flavours spot on. My meat was the highlight of the meal: as fine a piece of roasted rack of lamb as I have tasted – tender and really delicious. And I ended with another of my special requests, for I am a soufflé boy. This one was of vanilla, with raspberries and raspberry coulis, and proved a delightful conclusion to a most enjoyable meal, in which the magical setting, the good food and the correct, attentive service had combined to produce the pleasure of harmony.
Sommelière Maina Macrì (pictured) presides over a cellar of 500 wines which can provide a local white for 39 euros or the 1998 Pétrus for 5,000 euros. In between, there are lots of good things, among which I noticed the following: 1985 Sassicaia (3,200€), 1997 Solaia (950€), 1997 Luce (280€), 2000 Margaux (1,400€) and Krug Grande Cuvée (240€). Into the Riedel (Restaurant range) glasses she poured for me the 1999 vintage of Ornellaia’s ‘second’ wine, Le Serre Nuove (79€) – which yielded a glorious nose of earthy, ripe fruit and in the mouth was restrained and elegant.