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ITALY RAVELLO HOTEL RUFOLO Where would I send a friend who wanted to see the archetypal small Italian town? To Ravello, I think. Perched on top of the cliffs which have made the Amalfi Coast the backdrop of a hundred romantic films, Ravello seems almost too good for this naughty world. A thousand feet above the Mediterranean, its privileged position affords views which are so outrageously beautiful that they are positively medicinal. They return to the mind’s eye whenever a helping of serenity and beauty is needed to raise the spirits. And the place itself is like an opera-set: a perfectly assembled confection of piazza, cathedral and narrow streets. Indeed, the decay on the buildings has progressed so prettily that, at first sight, one suspects that it is the work of some talented exponent of trompe-l’œil. Here, as is only right, there are some wonderful hotels of high quality. And the one with the best location is the Hotel Rufolo. Let me at once declare an interest. I always admire those hoteliers who take my advice. It shows that they are determined to drive their establishments towards perfection. The last time I stayed at the Rufolo, I mentioned to the owner, Miss Rosaria Shiavo – pictured, with your correspondent – that the rooms lacked wastepaper bins and that the only hand towels in the bathrooms were hard, rather than soft. Both deficiencies have now been supplied. (And a new spa and a grand new swimming pool have also been added.) That this charming lady is so efficient should come as no surprise, for she is descended from a long line of hoteliers. Indeed, the Schiavo family opened the Rufolo over a century ago. D.H.Lawrence began Lady Chatterley’s Lover here, and here Douglas Hurd snatched a few quiet days away from his duties as Home Secretary. I have no doubt that both these fine fellows appreciated the position of the hotel. It is but a few steps from the Piazza Duomo, and is right next to the historic Villa Rufolo, with its famous gardens (open to the public). It also enjoys a panorama which includes the coast and far-off Salerno. You will, of course, want to book one of the spacious junior suites, from which you can gaze at this spectacular sea view (400-550 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season). But if the pennies are a little short or – as in my case – the sea-view rooms are full, an attractive alternative is room 419. This is the best of the garden-view rooms and possesses a large terrace – complete with a table, chairs and loungers – looking at the Villa Rufolo and at the south side of the cathedral and its campanile. In most contexts, this splendid view (pictured) would take the prize, but I know that here the Sea is King. Still, this air-conditioned apartment was clean and bright, with ceramic floor tiles (a speciality of the area) throughout. The pieces of polished wooden furniture included a small writing table and two armchairs. My bed, having been made specially soft for my ailing back, I found wonderfully comfortable. In the yellow bathroom were a tub with a jaccuzzi mechanism, a loo, a bidet and one wash basin. Ravello is not a cheap place in which to stay, so I counted this pleasant room something of a bargain at 235-290 euros a night, according to season, bed and breakfast for two. My dinners were had in the Ristorante Sigilgaida (pictured), the hotel dining room on the second floor. Again, the spectacular view – this time through plate glass windows – offered its magical charm. But there were other delights, too. The tables were large and round, the automatic piano (the most sensible alternative I have ever encountered to ‘live’ music) rattled through some of Mr Mozart’s clever melodies and good Riedel glassware stood on tablecloths of white damask. My waiters – Franco and Gennaro – were smart in their white jackets, lifted the silver domes with a flourish and were eager to attend to my every requirement. The whole enterprise was controlled with charming expertise by the maitre d’ (in black tie), Salvatore Somma. From my meals, I can recommend particularly the following dishes. Parma ham was happily accompanied by creamed cheese, rocket and cherry tomatoes. Vegetable soup, with roasted bread and olive oil, was wonderfully thick and full of goodness. The roasted loin of lamb was so good I had it twice – once with the Chef’s own combination of fennel apple sauce and Lyonnaise potatoes, and once with my own suggestion of caramelized lemon and fried onion. On both occasions I had something I absolutely adore: fresh peas, simply boiled. How seldom I find these nowadays. And when I do come across them, they are usually disappointing (as they were recently at a luxury hotel in London), because they are old and coarse. But at the Rufolo they were absolutely delicious – another bounty from the hotel garden. From my puddings, I remember best a lemon soufflé with gorgeous chocolate sauce. (Allow 50-60 euros for four courses.) Prices for the 140 offerings on the mostly Italian wine list are friendly. They begin at 15ε for various local reds and whites and end at 220ε for the 2004 Rosso Toscano from Tenuta di Trinoro. Other super Tuscans I noted were: 2003 Ornellaia (170ε), 2004 Sassicaia (180ε) and 2006 Tignanello (85ε). My own drinking enables me to point you to two very good reds from the local region of Campania: 2004 Montevetrano (Azienda Montevetrano - 50ε), young and tannic with subtle layers of damson and blackcurrant, and – even better – a 2001 Taurasi which caressed my mouth and throat with tobacco, cedar and ripe, luscious black fruit (‘Piano di Montevirgine’, San Gregorio - 45ε). Ravello is, indeed, the archetypal small Italian town, and the Rufolo is the archetypal small Italian hotel – friendly, wonderfully comfortable and perfectly located. You will enjoy them both.
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© Francis Bown 2003
