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VENICE

HOTEL MONACO & GRAND CANAL

In Venice, location is everything. And the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal has one of the best. Not only, as its name demands, does it have that all-important frontage on the Grand Canal, but it is also (even at my crawling pace) only two minutes from St Mark’s Square. This is a location kissed by Heaven.

I was surprised by the chic modernity of the entrance. My surprise was foolish, because I knew that, over the past few years, this collection of fine buildings has been undergoing a vast restoration and I was entering the brand new ‘join’ between the two main structures. Through glass doors a wide, uncluttered corridor led me to a spacious hallway with a glass roof. To the left, behind screens, was the near-complete terrace restaurant overlooking the Canal (which, I was told, will have the technological wizardry to allow outside dining, even in Winter); and, to the right, a wonderful, dark, Wizard of Oz tunnel, leading to the lift to my billet.

Checking in was no chore, for the members of staff at the Reception desk were efficient and friendly – and, indeed, were careful to use my name throughout my stay, a small courtesy which I appreciated. Then I set off to follow the Yellow Brick Road. Room 208 was on the second floor, overlooking the same narrow street from which I had entered the hotel. This was designated a junior suite and was therefore priced at 260 to 560 euros a night, bed and continental breakfast for two (depending on the season and the day of the week). In expensive Venice, for such wonderfully sited and well-planned accommodation, this must be considered good value.

The elegant door from the corridor appeared to be stone-clad. It took me into a small hallway, with mirrored doors to the hanging space – in which I found my private safe. (The latter is now the first thing I look for in a new room. Astonishingly, I sometimes discover that it is completely unsecured – as if I am being invited to collect my valuables into a handy box, ready for a burglar to pick up and take away. Here, I can happily report, it was fixed firmly.) Off the hall was the bathroom, a pleasing chamber of beige stone, with a tub of decent size and a glass door to the loo and bidet.

Pale greens, blues and greys dominated the spacious bedroom. Despite its beamed ceiling, it had a hint of Art Deco – with black easy chairs, a gold-framed mirror and bedside tables topped with polished blue granite. But the beamed ceiling was a clue to the older origins of these buildings. (Indeed, had I been more observant on first walking into the hotel, I would have noticed – off the entrance corridor – a classical staircase of considerable splendour.) For I was really staying in a union of two palaces: the Palazzetto Vallaresso Erizzo and the Palazzo Dandolo.

When I went down for dinner, I walked into one of the most beautiful rooms in Venice. In 1638 the Dandolo Palace was turned into the world’s first public casino. It survived until opponents had it closed in 1774, thereafter being used for dancing and theatricals until its resurrection as an hotel. And here was where it all happened: the Sala del Ridotto (rough translation: the Withdrawing Room). This huge hall of stuccoes, marbles and frescoes (by artists of the stature of Tiepolo, Guardi and Bella) was where I was privileged to dine and breakfast. (With the advent of the new Terrace Restaurant, the Sala de Ridotto will probably be used for private functions, but do make sure you have a look at it during your stay.)

At night the room looked its most ravishing. With orange-coloured candles twinkling on each yellow tablecloth, with the waiters in black tie flitting here and there and with the pianist picking out ‘As Time Goes By’, the atmosphere was of tasteful luxury. And, appropriately, my dinner was full of taste. You will find the food here straightforward and carefully prepared. I enjoyed Parmesan mousse with broccoli cream, pumpkin ‘gnocchi’ with sage and smoked cheese, tasty rack of lamb and refreshing vanilla ice cream. (These four courses cost 62 euros.)

Choosing my wine demanded some interrogation of the waiters, for the wine list is printed without vintages. (If you fancy the Mouton Rothschild at 460 euros, it is 1997.) It divides its 100 wines into various types. I chose a “white wine of excellent repute” and a “prestige red wine in the grand tradition”. The former, a local chardonnay of discreet fruit, was marvellous with the Parmesan mousse (Ferrata, Maculan, 2000 – 40 euros). The latter, a 1998 Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany, was still youthful, but yielded a hint of farmyard in the nose and lots of blackberries (La Poderina – 90 euros). Service, orchestrated by maitre d’ Guido Patruno, is formal and efficient.

If you want your Venetian luxury hostelry to offer good value, comfort, decent food, pleasing service and a superb location, the Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal might be your ideal choice.

ADDRESSES

HOTEL MONACO & GRAND HOTEL

Calle Vallaresso 1332, San Marco, Venice 30124, Italy.

Telephone +39 041 52 00 211

Fax +39 041 52 00 501

Email: mailbox@hotelmonaco.it

Double rooms from 170 to 510 euros a night (depending on the season and the day of the week)

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