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ROME

HOTEL DE RUSSIE

What is your idea of a luxury hotel in Rome? Probably a confection of veined marble, thick gold leaf and heavy red drapes. You will not, I fancy, be thinking cool, calm and sophisticated.

Yet but a few yards from the glories of the Piazza del Popolo is an hotel which is the very essence of luxurious sophistication. Built in 1814, the Hotel de Russie used to be crowded with members of the Russian nobility and other persons of importance. In 1891 Napoleon’s nephew even decided to die within its walls. Here Diaghilev lusted after Nijinsky and Picasso thought his strange artistic thoughts. Then the glory departed. After the War a television channel used it for a time as offices, until it was left empty and abandoned.

At last a saviour appeared, in the form of hotelier Sir Rocco Forte. And in 2000, the Hotel de Russie opened once more, transformed. And now it unique among the hostelries of the Eternal City. After a feverish day of sating my visual appetite on the Baroque excesses of church and palace, I found stepping through the front door of the Hotel de Russie as refreshing as a plunge into a chilled pool. High ceilings, tones of grey and views through to the courtyard and the pine trees in the gardens beyond, make this entrance hall a pure joy. And the laid-back, uncluttered style continues upstairs.

I always take careful note of hotel corridors. Too often they are boring and badly designed. Here they made walking to my room – past spot-lit reproductions of Classical friezes – a real pleasure. And entering my room was a pleasure, too. On the fifth floor, with another view of those gardens zooming up the hillside to the park of the Villa Borghese, number 529 was a chamber of yellow, with touches of Art Deco – like the golden stem of the coffee table. Again the sophistication was all around: manifest in the Robert Mapplethorpe flower photographs in the bedroom and in the mosaic of grapes on the wall of the bathroom. This was a deluxe room, and was therefore priced at 770 euros a night for two.

Breakfast is extra (27.50 euros per person), but it should not be missed. The sheer quality of the food on the buffet table impressed me no end. I composed three plates: fresh pineapple with segments of blood orange; slices of rare beef with green beans and cucumber; and toast (with the crusts cut off, of course) and marmalade. My coffee, as you would expect, was excellent. (One point to note is that the hot dishes of the buffet – bacon etc. – cost a few extra euros.)

With so good a start to the day, I wondered whether the standards would be maintained for dinner. They were. Which is as well, for the hotel’s restaurant, Le Jardin de Russie, is a handsome chamber with Murano crystal chandeliers and a silvered ceiling, and it raises expectations. But I was in good hands. Chef Nazzareno Menghini is talented at both presentation and execution. Marinated foie gras with candied fruit was a well-judged balance of tastes and looked quite delightful. How he managed to make the liver appear in the form of an opening rose, I do not know. Ravioli with wild boar and chestnuts was earthy and straightforward. Loin of lamb was tender and flavoursome. And nougat parfait was crunchy and sweet. (83 euros for these four courses from the carte. A set 4-course dinner is available at 45 euros.)

Service, orchestrated by maitre d’ Gabriele Pinzi, was efficient and unobtrusive. It was Gabriele who recommended the half bottle of Italian sweet wine with the foie gras. I was glad he did, because this Tuscan marriage of alcohol and treacle was ideally suited to the dish (Botrys 1997, Mastrojanni – 75.50 euros). Then it was to Umbria for Antinori’s blend of chardonnay and grechetto, with its discreet fruit, clear structure and lingering finish (Cervaro della Sala, 2001 – 41 euros). And, with the lamb, came a merlot from Sicily – hot, plummy and dry (Grammonte, 2000, Cottanera – 63 euros). Should you wish to splash out, the cellar can offer grand bubbly (Dom Perignon, 1962 – 650 euros) or prestigious claret (Pétrus, 1986 – 2,200 euros).

Both the eating and the drinking at Le Jardin de Russie were thoroughly enjoyable. Which is as it should be, for great hotels should have great restaurants.  And the Hotel de Russie is a great hotel. Now, let me ask you again: What is your idea of a luxury hotel in Rome?

ADDRESSES

HOTEL DE RUSSIE

Via del Babuino 9, Rome 00187, Italy.

Telephone +39 06 32 88 81

Fax +39 06 32 88 88 88

Email: reservations@hotelderussie.it

www.roccofortehotels.com

Double rooms from 580 euros, breakfast extra

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