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FLORENCE RISTORANTE GUELFI & GHIBELLINI, RELAIS SANTA CROCE
I turned right out of the Basilica, walked up a narrow street and then turned left into the via Ghibellina. At number 87 I stopped, for I was at the entrance of the palazzo built in the 18th century for Jacometti Ciofi. I knew that on the upper floors was the Relais Santa Croce, and I was heading for its dining room. Coming out of the lift onto the piano nobile, I was immediately struck by the lightness and elegance of the architecture. The palace has been beautifully restored, clearly at enormous expense, and I felt at once relaxed and comfortable – the recent liturgical horrors falling away as I admired my new surroundings. I was soon comfortably installed in the sitting room, with a glass of bubbly.
Maitre d’ Daniele Caldera (a friendly, efficient and most courteous fellow from Turin) took me into the adjacent dining room – called the Ristorante Guelfi e Ghibellini – and to a table next to its white marble fireplace. I eased myself into the armchair of black leather. The recollection of this seating prompts me to point out that the sophisticated ambiance of the Relais Santa Croce depends very much upon the contrast between the classical building and its distinctly modern furnishings. Thus, above my head as I sat at the very cutting-edge table-setting was a truly wonderful trompe-l’oeil painted ceiling. I liked this constructive tension, just as I liked the good Italian glassware and the little stand on my table with eight tiny bottles of olive oil. It was apparent as soon as my waiter, Gabriele, brought the amuse-gueule, that there was real talent in the kitchen. This warm tuna with olives was just so well done. As the meal progressed, it became more and more apparent to me that Chef Marco Tremonte (pictured) is determined that his will be one of the best restaurants in Florence. And that is no small ambition, for the ground floor of this very building is occupied by the fabulous Enoteca Pinchiorri (see separate review), one of the world’s greatest gastronomic shrines.
Around 200 wines inhabit the wine list. Their prices run from 25ε for a white from Tuscany to 580ε for 1999 Cristal rosé champagne. Mr Gaja’s 2001 Barbaresco can be had for 240ε, and I noted the following super-Tuscans: 1999 Luce (190ε), 2001 Ornellaia (200ε), 2001 Solaia (270ε) and 2004 Sassicaia (270ε). I confined myself to a bottle of white from Tuscany. This deep-golden blend of chardonnay and pinot blanc reminded me of a top quality Meursault. It was really that good – full-bodied, round, smooth, buttery, toasty and with a lovely nuttiness. I recommend it to you – Batàr, Querciabella, 2003 (75ε). But what of Michelangelo and Bing Crosby? Well, the great artist appeared from his mother’s womb on this very street. And the world’s favourite crooner came through the loudspeakers of the Ristorante Guelfi e Ghibellini – after I had requested a change to the canned music. It would never have occurred to me that “I’m dreaming of a white Christmas” would go so well with lunch in an 18th century Florentine palazzo, on the street where Michelangelo was born. But go well it did, and thus was established in my mind a connection which I am happy to share with you.
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RISTORANTE GUELFI & GHIBELLINI
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© Francis Bown 2003
What do Michelangelo and Bing Crosby have in common? They were both touched by Genius, of course; and they were both Catholics. But, for me, a recent meal has created a more interesting connection. It was Sunday and I was in Florence. The celebration of Mass at the Basilica of Santa Croce had been abysmal. I have become wearily familiar with the mixture of sloppy ceremonial and dreary indifference which nowadays so often attends the offering of the Eucharistic Sacrifice, even in the most magnificent of surroundings. Yet here there had been an extra level of pain, caused by the warbling of a visiting choir. Whence these singers who could not sing had journeyed, I did not know. But what I did know was that the noise – it could not be called music – they created forced me to cover my ears, in a desperate attempt to preserve my sanity. I emerged into the mid-day sunshine in the lowest of spirits. Only a truly wonderful lunch could now save me from despair. And that is precisely what I found at the Ristorante Guelfi e Ghibellini.
I say ‘sitting room’, but this designation does no justice to what is a chamber of remarkable splendour. If you like the white stucco of the 18th century – and I do – you will love this exquisite confection of plaster cherubs and musicians. I could have stayed here for the rest of the afternoon. But lunch was calling.
Chef Tremonte offers a five-course menu for 80ε. My four courses from the carte cost 86ε. I began with a salad of salt cod, with tomato mayonnaise and horse-radish sprouts. Prettily presented on a black dish, this was a bright opening to my lunch, a medley of subtle tastes and pleasing textures. Next was excellent tagliatelle – the soft pasta served with porcini mushrooms, parmesan cheese broth, pine nuts and mace. More porcini came with the sea bass. Here the crisp skin and the delicious flesh of the fish were caressed by the flavours of thyme and candied lemon. I ended, as I so often end my meals, with a modicum of indulgence. The pistachio parfait, with candied mandarin and spiced chocolate, was as good as it sounds. And then, as a second ending, came some impressive petits fours, including an exceptionally good miniature crème brûlée.
