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VIENNA GRAND HOTEL
The first good sign was the doorman. Smart and efficient, he ushered me through the revolving door into the high and spacious lobby. Here I was surrounded by those things I want at a grand hotel: a marble floor, crystal chandeliers, polished mahogany and potted palms. In front of me a grand staircase swept upwards between fluted columns. A few moments with the friendly lady at the reception desk, and I was in one of the lifts. It was no longer operated by steam power, but it did deliver me very rapidly to the fifth floor.
I have another tip for you, regarding breakfast. This is served in the Grand Café, on a level looking down upon the lobby. It is a fine space and I much enjoyed the comestibles on offer. Each morning I tucked into segments of fresh orange and melon, slices of cold roast beef, Sugar Puffs – a naughty treat, but why not? – and top class croissants, from the buffet, and wonderfully tasty crisp bacon, mushrooms and pots of hot coffee, brought from the kitchen – all for 29 euros. But my tip concerns the wooden seats, which certainly looked elegant, but which I found had no support for my creaking lower back. The answer was to sit at one of the tables just outside the café entrance. Here the chairs were perfect – so I suggest you follow my example.
Daytime for me in Vienna means leisurely walking along pristine streets between the famous cafés. My favourite café is the Central, housed in a 19 th century building in the Romanesque style of such sumptuousness that it should be on the list of everyone interested in architecture. This, together with a couple of baroque churches and – if the season is right – a Christmas market, is quite enough to stimulate my appetite and make me impatient for a really good dinner. My gastronomic expectations at The Grand, I readily admit, were not particularly high. Of its two restaurants, one Japanese and one French and Viennese, I had chosen the latter. I supposed that the food would be decent and straightforward. I was in for a shock. Le Ciel is on the top floor of the hotel. From its windows can be viewed church domes and quaint rooftops. I settled myself into an armchair (fashioned after the French manner) at a large, square table and surveyed the room. Columns and walls of beige glowed in the soft light of crystal chandeliers and tapered candles. Upon my white tablecloth Riedel glasses (from the Vinum range) sparkled. The pianist at the white baby grand piano began to play gentle melodies. A single, white chrysanthemun floated in a vase upon my table. This was certainly a most comfortable environment. And the service from my waiter, Daniel Pokorny – smart, in black tie – was equally impressive. Correct, courteous and friendly, it included bringing a new linen napkin, when I left the table for a moment.
The menu is short and attractive, with sea bass, turbot, venison and pigeon all well represented. But my visit coincided with the season of truffles from Alba, so three of my four courses were special to the Festival of the Fungus and were privileged to have the divine tuber sliced over them at the table. My opening dish of crayfish with zucchini and pumpkin mousse and champagne jelly was glorious: subtle, delicate, perfectly judged, a superb combination of tastes and textures. It revealed the wonder of the truffle perfectly. And the next course performed the same magic almost as well – beef carpaccio with scrambled eggs, topped with the aromatic truffle. The main course did not achieve these sublime heights, for the more robust flavours of its veal and beef fillet inevitably tended to overcome the delicacy of the truffle, but there was no denying the fine quality of this tender meat. At my request, the concluding coconut soufflé was a large one, to be divided between myself and my companion. Served with glazed pineapple and coconut ice cream, it was a fitting finale to a tremendously enjoyable meal. (135 euros for these four courses.) With food of such magnificence there should be a good cellar. And there is. Chef Sommelier Franz Messeritsch’s list has 400 offerings, with prices starting at 27 euros. Austria dominates, of course, but it was good to see tempting bottles from elsewhere. From Spain, 2001 Vega Sicilia Unico is 349 euros. From California, 1998 Harlan Estate cabernet is 540 euros. From Italy, 1985 Sassicaia is 1,800 euros. And those of you who cannot bear to be without your claret will rejoice at the choice from the famous vintage of 1982: Cheval Blanc (1,750 euros), Lafite (1,100 euros), Latour (1,900 euros) and Haut Brion (820 euros).
In fact, I shall say thank you to the whole of the Grand Hotel in Vienna – for being so… grand. It lives up to its title. And I give thanks, too, for Le Ciel, a restaurant which is serving food of a spectacularly high standard.
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ADDRESSESTHE GRAND HOTEL LE CIEL |
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© Francis Bown 2003
Grand Hotels should be grand. And the one in Vienna is. Located on the Ring, the road which replaced the city walls in the 19 th century, it is but a handful of steps from the famous Opera House and only a leisurely stroll from the Gothic masterpiece which is the cathedral. But this excellent position was not the reason for my visit. I was fascinated to see what had become of the noble pile which had opened in 1870 with one of the wonders of the age – a system of lifts worked by steam. I knew, too, that vast amounts of money had been spent over recent years to regain the hotel’s former status as one of Europe’s finest luxury hotels. As my taxi pulled up outside, I was full of anticipation.
Here I was billeted in apartment 528. This was a ‘superior’ (i.e. standard) room and therefore 400 euros a night for two, breakfast extra. Quiet, air-conditioned and decorated in tones of cream, beige and brown, this accommodation had much to please me. I liked the two wash basins, the separate loo, the heated bathroom mirror and the tub of generous proportions. But I think that you, dear reader, might want a bit more space in the bedroom, so my tip would be to opt for an ‘exclusive’ room (480 euros) or a junior suite (680 euros).
As I lingered here after breaking my fast, I mused upon former guests of the hotel. They include nearly every person of note who has come to Vienna since 1870. Those of a spiritual bent will be pleased to know, I am sure, that the Aga Kahn and the Dalai Lama have both rested their heads here. And I was intrigued to learn that Johann Strauss celebrated his 50 th birthday here in 1894 – doubtless, with a few waltzes.
Yet it was the food which truly astonished me. It was very, very good. I send my congratulations to the chef, Jacqeline Pfeiffer. She is clearly a prodigious talent, and The Grand is fortunate to have her. My meal revealed a kitchen which is full of intelligence and flair.
Aided by advice from sommelier Dietmar Baumgartner, I went to Austria for my white and to Burgundy for my red. The 2004 Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau (Rainer Wess – 55 euros) had sherbet in the nose, discreet fruit in the mouth and yielded a lingering aftertaste, and the 2001 Chambolle Musigny (Comte de Vogüé – 110 euros) sent out a super nose of old socks, although it was slightly lean in the mouth. This was good drinking. Thank you, Herr Baumgartner.