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SICILY TAORMINA GRAND HOTEL TIMEO
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GRAND HOTEL TIMEO
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© Francis Bown 2003
For thousands of years Taormina has been attracting those in search of beauty. Overlooking the Bay of Naxos, this is a hill blessed by the gods. The Greeks adored it, and so did the Romans. The former built a magnificent theatre here, and the latter gave it the name we still use – the hill (mons) of the bull (taurus). In 1873 Francesco La Floresta decided that this little place needed an hotel. So he built one, and called it by the name of the son of Andromaca, the founder of Taormina. Thus was born the hostelry known as Timeo. To its doors flocked the world’s discerning. Soon the little hostelry became The Grand Hotel Timeo, one of the most famous hotels in Europe. Here have scribbled Oscar Wilde, D.H.Lawrence and Tennessee Williams. And here have laid their heads Kaiser Wilhelm II, Christian Dior and... your correspondent.
I flew into Catania and then sat back for forty minutes while the Mercedes motor car – organized by the very helpful staff at the hotel – whizzed me to the front door of the Timeo. My first impression was very good indeed, for the public areas of this building are both plentiful and elegant. Antique furniture and good oil paintings are all over the place and the use of clear glass in the doors and walls means that the sense of space is highly impressive. I hope that the photograph of me in one of the reception rooms conveys what I mean. I found this atmosphere both welcoming and highly civilized.
Room 224 was on a floor one lower than the reception, for the building is on the side of the hill. It was a ‘superior junior suite’ and therefore 350-638 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. Its prevailing colour was white. You will see from the picture that there was some impressive plasterwork of swagged curtains on the wall over the bed – in white, of course. Outside each of the two French windows was a small balcony, and it became my custom after dinner to go out and to look up at Mount Etna to see the red lava flowing from its peak. Of how many hotel apartments can you say that?
On the wooden floor was a carpet of the Aubusson style and on the wall hung a mirror with an elaborately carved wooden frame. The ceiling was high and the space beneath it was sufficient to accommodate a wooden armchair and a two-seat sofa. My bathroom was small, with white tiles. It contained one wash basin, a bidet, a loo, a tub of decent size and some rather eccentric plumbing. After a time, I discovered how to eliminate the knocking of the water pipes. The secret was not to turn the cold water tap in the bath fully on. Armed with this discovery, I found my apartment thoroughly charming – particularly in the mornings, when the birdsong drifted in from the gardens. And one small courtesy impressed me enormously: all the soft drinks in the refrigerator were available without charge. (Should you wish to have several rooms and a large private terrace to yourself, you will need to book the Kaiser Suite – for 1,100-1,700 euros a night.) 
I enjoyed my breakfasts at the Timeo, for they were had on the restaurant terrace, under a sun shade with the wonderful panorama laid out in front of me. Here the charming waiter, Raffaele, persuaded me to try the graffen, tiny doughnuts which are much enjoyed by Sicilians. I also secured from the buffet bowls of Rice Crispies and plates of fresh pineapple, while Raffaele hurried off to the kitchen to fetch my onion omelettes.
Settled into a wooden armchair, with a white tablecloth before me, I felt much contentment in this place. The rear part of the room, with a huge fireplace, has something of the feel of a Scottish baronial castle, while the front is surrounded by plate glass, to take advantage of the views. Into this interesting space, the young Executive Chef, Salvatore Pullara, sends dishes of straightforward, carefully prepared food. From those I tried, I will pick out the highlights. You must certainly sample the cured ham, made from Nebrodi wild black pigs and served with wild mushrooms - subtle and utterly delicious. The duck foie gras with persimmon fruit and pistachio nuts was also first class. And both the fillet of beef (with pepper and cognac) and the loin of lamb (with garlic) were top quality meat, expertly prepared. (Allow around 90/95 euros for four courses.)
