FRANCE
SAINT TROPEZ
CHÂTEAU DE LA MESSARDIÈRE
When a great hotel not only maintains its standards, but actually gets better, I stand in awe and wonder. This is because I have some idea of the quantities of skill, imagination, dedication and sheer, honest hard work which must be involved in such an improvement. I have made no secret, over the years, of my admiration for the Château de la Messardière. I have considered it not one of the best hotels on the French Riviera, not one of the best hotels in France, but one of the best hotels in the whole of Europe. Visit after visit has confirmed this judgement. 
But I have changed my view. Now I regard it as one of the best hotels in the world. I must therefore pay an immediate tribute to the captain of the ship. The hotel’s Director Geneneral, Alexandre Durand-Viel (photographed both with your correspondent and on his own – for he deserves two pictures), has taken this sparkling jewel in the treasure chest of French hospitality and has polished it until it sparkles as never before.
On my first visit to St Tropez, many years ago, I went for a ride on one of the small boats which take tourists to stare at the homes of the rich and famous. Since I was (and remain) largely ignorant of popular culture, many of the names of the folk who were said to own the waterside villas – names, I supposed, of popular singers and film stars, for they caused my fellow passengers to gasp and sigh – meant nothing to me. I was intrigued, however, by what appeared to be a fairytale castle on top of one the hills overlooking the Bay of St Tropez. Eventually, the sun-tanned commentator directed the attention of his audience to the object of my interest. “At the top of the hill,” he declared, “you can see the Château de la Messardière. It is now a luxury hotel. Very rich people stay there.” I hope you will forgive my conceit in providing you with two pictures: one is of the view from the tourist boat, with the Chateau just visible on the horizon; and the other is the return view from the Chateau, looking out to the bay from which the tourists gaze up.
The keep of the castle was built in the Nineteenth Century in the Gothic manner by the Comte de la Messardière. (The family’s association with the building continues, for his great grand-daughter, Victoire, is a talented artist and many of her paintings adorn the rooms and corridors of the hotel.) 
Around this central block are modern structures, designed to remind us of the Italian Renaissance – with their Florentine columns, Venetian arches and Genoese columns. 
This meeting of styles is successful, as you can see from the picture of the spacious entrance hall. Indeed, whenever I turn off the route Tahiti and guide the motor between the wrought iron gates and up the drive through the 25 acres of gardens, I always feel I am purring up the incline towards a place of real welcome. Above the entrance is a crest (pictured) with the family motto, Victor et Inermis, which we may translate as ‘Victor even when disarmed’.
It is appropriate, for the victory here is, indeed, achieved without force of arms. It is a victory of good hotel-keeping, and it is achieved by the powerful combination of a beautiful setting, exquisitely tended gardens, luxurious accommodation furnished in impeccable taste, wonderful food and a body of staff (in high season it can number as many as 180) which is totally dedicated to serving those fortunate enough to occupy the 118 rooms and suites.
My own room, number 448, was a Seaview Junior Suite, and therefore 720 – 1,120 euros a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. It was about 20 feet long, with 9 foot ceilings, a light décor of white and terra cotta, excellent lighting and splendidly quiet and efficient air conditioning. From the corridor, I entered into an area with a writing desk and fitted wardrobes (in which was a private safe), and then up a step were the sitting and sleeping areas, with a tiled floor, a good Persian rug (the hotel has a fine collection of such), a gilt-framed mirror, a television with a dvd/cd facility and two French windows. Through these last was the room’s most remarkable feature: a terrace of huge proportions, which wrapped its way around one corner of the Chateau and afforded me views of the sea, the beaches and the surrounding pine trees. 
It even provided me with my own wrought iron gazebo (pictured). Had I suddenly acquired fifty or sixty Tropezian chums, this would have been the ideal place for a champagne party.
Back inside, there was also plenty of room in the bathroom. This meant that there was an abundance of shelf space, too. (Have you noticed how frequently hotel bathrooms neglect to provide us with this vital feature? On occasion I have even been obliged to arrange my pills and potions on the floor.) L’Occitane toiletries, two wash basins, a tub of proper size, a loo behind a sliding door and plenty of fluffy, white towels meant that my ablutions could be performed in the proper manner.
Pre-prandial bathing is important to me, for I like to look my best at dinner. The restaurant at the Chateau had been completely redecorated since my last visit. Before, it was rather rustic: now it is chic and sophisticated. It provides a proper setting for the chic and sophisticated cuisine of Chef Christian Farenasso (pictured). Actually, I was outside on the terrace, but the ambiance spills outside, so my words are appropriate. I do hope that the Michelin inspectors soon take note of what is happening in this dining room, called Les Trois Saisons (which is open only for dinner). For the food, the setting and the service – which includes much lifting of silver domes and is orchestrated by the excellent 
Restaurant Manager, Philippe Lana (who was kind enough to compliment me on my sartorial efforts) – make this restaurant entirely deserving of one of their coveted stars.
Chef Farenasso offers two set meals, with prices at 68€ for four courses and 96€ for seven courses. I chose four courses from the carte, for which you should allow 130-160€. My opening dish of a pan-fried escalope of duck foie gras, with fresh grapes and Corsican Muscatel sauce, was quite superb, both in conception and execution. Here were lovely, ravishing flavours and textures. True, the grapes should have been de-seeded, but I mentioned the point to Monsieur Lana, so I expect that this little fault will have been corrected overnight. Then came a fine risotto, with parmesan, grilled pancetta and white truffle from Alba. The main course was a brilliant example of the way in which intense flavours should be handled. These noisettes of hare had been fried in foie gras butter and were served with fresh carrots and creamy polenta. They were brilliant in every respect. My taste buds then needed to be calmed down, so the iced parfait of honey (made by bees in the Chateau’s garden), with exotic fruit compote and citrus fruit syrup, was the ideal conclusion to this impressive meal.
Sommelier Adrian Pacaud has 320 offerings on his list, and they are, as you would expect, nearly all French. Prices run from 35€ for a white Bordeaux to 3,650 for the 2007 Romanée-Conti. Many bottles are in the 40€-80€ range. From the grander wines, the following caught my eye: 1959 Yquem (2,500€), 1999 Latour (1,600€), 1961 Calon-Ségur (790€), 2000 Haut Brion (1,800€) and 1996 La Tâche (2,150€). My own drinking included a big and bold red from the Roussillon area, which – after decanting – delivered satisfying layers of dense, black fruit and some sustaining residual sweetness (Côtes du Roussillon, Cuvée La Torre, Dom. Gardies, 2008 - 95€).
I must make mention of my breakfasts (back on the restaurant terrace, with its gorgeous view) for two reasons. First, the food from the buffet – including orange juice, croissants, ham, cheese, pineapple, Corn Flakes, crusty bread and marmalade – was excellent. And second, there was the Directeur de la Restaration (the person we Anglo-Saxons would call the Food & Beverage Manager). This fine gentleman, Arnaud André (pictured), worked tirelessly to ensure my comfort – making sure I had a more supportive chair for my ailing back, moving the sun shades hither and thither to ensure I was always in the shade and even producing for me a magic anti-wasp device (which looked like a tennis racket) so that I could deal with any of the little blighters tempted to visit by my impressive display of comestibles. This man deserved a medal.
And so does the Chateau de la Messardière. It was wonderful before, and it is even better now. And so, after pinning on the medal, I must do the proper thing. I salute.
ADDRESSES
CHÂTEAU DE LA MESSARDIÈRE
Route Tahiti, Saint Tropez 83990, France.
Telephone +33 (0)4 94 56 76 00
Fax +33 (0)4 94 56 76 01
Email: hotel@messardiere.com
www.messardiere.com
Double rooms from 260 – 500 euros, including breakfast, according to season
Open from April to the end of October