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Back to reviews in France & Monaco
Everyone of sound mind wants to stay in a palace. The word brings to mind splendour, luxury, refinement and good taste. All of these you will find in the magical castle which sits on a verdant hilltop above St Tropez. Fortunate are those who pass through the wrought iron gates of the Château de la Messardière, ascend its long drive and find rest and contentment. Only a handful of hotels in France are officially designated ‘palaces’, and the Messardière is of that number. This is entirely proper, for it is not only one of the best hotels on the French Riviera: it is also one of the best hotels in Europe. And much of the credit for this exalted position must go to the hotel’s Director General, Alexandre Durand-Viel (pictured). He has taken this sparkling jewel in the treasure chest of French hospitality and has polished it until it sparkles like the brightest diamond. As well as being a remarkable hotel manager, Monsieur Durand-Viel is a civilised and cultivated gentleman. He is the President of the SociétéTropézienne des Amis de la Musique and the instigator of the Messardière Prize for Summer Novels.
I have been going to St Tropez for so long that I dare not count the years. I love it. On my very first visit I decided to go for a ride in one of the small boats which take tourists to stare at the homes of the rich and famous. Since I was then (and remain) largely ignorant of popular culture, many of the names of the folk who were said to own the waterside villas – names, I supposed, of popular singers and film stars, for they caused my fellow passengers to gasp and sigh – meant nothing to me. I was intrigued, however, to see fairytale towers on top of one the hills overlooking the Bay of St Tropez. Eventually, the sun-tanned commentator directed the attention of his audience to the object of my interest. “At the top of the hill,” he declared, “you can see the Château de la Messardière. It is now a luxury hotel. Very rich people stay there.”
The keep of the castle was built in the Nineteenth Century in the Gothic manner by the Comte de la Messardière. (The family’s association with the building continues, for his great grand-daughter, Victoire, is a talented artist and many of her paintings adorn the rooms and corridors of the hotel.) Around this central block are modern structures, designed to remind us of the Italian Renaissance – with their columns (both Florentine and Genoese) and their Venetian arches. This meeting of styles is successful, as you can see from the pictures. Above the entrance is a crest with the family motto, Victor et Inermis, which we might translate as ‘Victor even when disarmed’.
It is appropriate, for the victory here is, indeed, won without force of arms. It is a victory of good hotel-keeping, and it is achievedby the powerful combination of a beautiful setting, exquisitely tended gardens, luxurious accommodation furnished with impeccable taste, wonderful food and a body of staff (in high season it can number as many as 180) which is totally dedicated to serving those who occupy the 118 rooms and suites. (Incidentally, the fact that the hotel grounds are outside St Tropez is a real bonus, for it ensures that all is sweet repose away from the crowds of the resort. Yet the hotel’s 24 hour shuttle whisks guests to and from the bustle, and the charming, air-conditioned waiting-room in town ensures that such excursions can be entirely free of stress.)
My own room, number 543, was a Junior Suite, and therefore 850€ – 1,540€ a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. This was spacious and elegant accommodation, with lots of sliding doors. (I am rather a fan of the sliding door.) On the fifth floor of the main building – ‘the keep’, if we wish to keep to the terminology of the castle – this apartment’s style was discreetly modern, with sophisticated lighting and much bleached wood. But comfort and convenience had been the designer’s priorities, so there were plenty of fitted wardrobes and a full length mirror in the proper hallway and cream rugs were strategically placed on the wooden floor in the bed-sitting room. My ailing back liked the deliciously soft bed and my delicate wrists liked the electrical movement of the heavy curtains.
Bathrooms are very important, and this was a good one. Decorated in white and tones of light brown and lit by spotlights, it had plenty of space for its proper bath, its two wash basins, its separate loo and its separate, large shower. The toiletries were by Cinq Mondes of Paris.
The chief glory of my billet, however, was the view. From the bedroom window and from my private terrace, I could gaze over the swimming pool and the pine trees and out to the tiny yachts on the glistening sea. To sit outside in the early morning and look upon this scene was a joy.
The restaurant of the Messardière is as it should be – chic and sophisticated. Its name is L’Acacia. Here you will find the finest Bernardaud crockery, Degrenne glassware, white napery, Christofle cutlery and waiters in black waistcoats who lift silver domes. If the weather is clement, under the white shades of its terrace is a wonderful place to be in the evenings, as the sun gradually sinks over the Bay of Pampelone. The cuisine of Executive Chef Jean-Michel Le Béon (pictured) is appealing. His ingredients are of the finest quality, his combinations of tastes and textures are well-judged and his culinary skill is impressive. You will enjoy eating here, as I did – which is why I was keen to be photographed with both the accomplished Food & Beverage Manager, Arnaud André (on the right of the picture) and his Assistant, Francois (on the left). The picture is in black and white, to emphasise the old-fashioned virtues of courtesy and good service which these gentlemen display.
Chef Le Béon offers various set meals, but for my dinner I chose three courses from the carte (for which you should allow 110€-120€). The best came first – a truly ravishing confection of lobster medallions and truffle pearls, with diced vegetables and a shell vinaigrette. The truffle gave off its intoxicating aroma and the lobster was deliciously tender. There was real intelligence on display in this combination of tastes and textures. Next came a generous piece of beef fillet with a Bordelaise sauce and an intriguing mousse of cumin-scented carrots. I finished with strawberries, meringue and lemon and olive ice cream.
The wine list has 377 offerings. All are French. Prices run from 45€ for a Provençal white (2018 Cassis) to 12,000€ for the 2016 vintage of Romanée-Conti. (There are 17 offerings from the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.) Top class clarets are a particular strength, with 2001 Latour (2,310€), 1979 Lafite (2,900€), 2000 Margaux (4,320€), 1986 Pétrus (4,930€) and 1986 Haut Brion (1,760€). Several grand wines are included in the ‘by the glass’ section, including 1996 Yquem (200€). My own drinking included a lovely local red recommended by the sommelier, Charlotte Hellec. It was full of that intense earthiness I associate with the red wines of the area (2015 Château Margui).
I must make mention of my breakfasts (back on the restaurant terrace, with its gorgeous view). Indeed – once Mr André, helpful as always, had turned off the canned music and blissful silence reigned (my view is that La musique avec le petit déjeuner est une invention du Diable) – I can think of no better place in the world for the breaking of the fast. Shaded from the sun, at a large table, surrounded by cream napery and the attentions of the charming staff, I felt I could do justice to the lovely food on offer. In my mind remains particularly an exquisite plum tart, although everything from the buffet – brioche, fruit, ham, cheese, cake, cereals – and from the kitchen (especially my omelettes) was tip-top.
Indeed, everything about the Château de la Messardière is tip-top. After all, what else would you expect of a palace?
Route Tahiti, Saint Tropez 83990, France.
Telephone +33 (0)4 94 56 76 00
Fax +44 (0)4 94 56 76 01
Email: hotel@messardiere.com
www.messardiere.com
Double rooms from 450€, including breakfast, according to season
Open from April to the end of October
Check the hotel website for special offers
