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ITALY CAPRI ANACAPRI HOTEL CAESAR AUGUSTUS
On this particular cliff-top have been found traces of buildings dating back to the 9th century, and there is no doubt that it was regarded as a special plot even before then – given the love of Capri shown by the rulers of the Roman Empire. The panorama is just wonderful. In the 1850s a wealthy German built the Villa Bitter here (pictured, in black and white). This was purchased in the 1900s by Prince Emmanuel Bullak of Russia. He it was who installed the life-size statue of Caesar Augustus, pointing out to the sea. If you look carefully at the photograph, you may discern the shape of your correspondent, imitating the imperial pose. In the 1930s the villa was purchased by the Signorini family from Naples. The Signorinis turned it into an hotel, and it is they who still run it today.
The Caesar Augustus is now one of the most stylish and comfortable of Italy’s small hotels (it has just 55 rooms). The pristine public areas and the gorgeous terraced gardens (lit with hundreds of candles when darkness falls) ooze sophistication and elegance. And there is humour, too. Some members of the waiting staff are dressed in striped blouses and red bandanas, an outfit which I found reminiscent of those productions of The Pirates of Penzance to which Auntie Maud took me as a boy. And nothing pleases me more than to be reminded of Gilbert and Sullivan.
For breakfast I went to the dining room, and sat opposite an open French window, so that I could enjoy the cooling sea breeze. Here I was looked after very well by the Most of the 90 offerings on the wine list are Italian. Prices start at 22ε for a pinot grigio from Friuli and go to 2,100ε for the 2000 vintage of Mr Gaja’s ‘Costa Russi’ Nebbiolo. Of the super-Tuscans, 2008 Tignanello is 95ε, 2007 Ornellaia is 200ε and 2006 Sassicaia s 250ε. I found a local fiano di Avellino (Terre di Dora, Terredora, 2009 - 30€) better after it had been taken out of the ice bucket, and a local primitivo typically earthy and full of black fruit (Falerno del Massico, Michele Moio, 2008 - 30€). After a decent meal and a glass (or two) of such wines, it was a joy to be able to go off to the main terrace and sit in the coolness of the evening, gazing across at the faint lights of far-off Naples. The Hotel Caesar Augustus, by virtue of its remarkable location, its elegant accommodation and its welcoming hospitality, deserves to win tributes from the readers of travel magazines. It also deserved to be chosen by King Farouk, when he needed some serious cosseting. And it deserves its honoured place in Bown’s Best.
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ADDRESSES
HOTEL CAESAR AUGUSTUS
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© Francis Bown 2003
Just before I arrived in Capri, the readers of the Condé Nast Traveller magazine had voted the Caesar Augustus the top resort hotel in Europe, and the 14th best hotel in the world. The owner, Paolo Signorini (pictured , relaxing on a sofa in one of the hotel's sitting rooms), was understandably proud of these accolades. He is a gentleman (and I use that word deliberately) who is constantly seeking ways to improve his fine establishment, and it is pleasing when one’s efforts receive some recognition. But, of course, those readers were certainly not the first to recognize the charms of the hotel. In the 1950s, King Farouk of Egypt came here to cheer himself up, after Mr Nasser had obliged him to leave Egypt. His apartment is now called The Farouk Suite, and can be yours for 1,100 – 1,300 euros a night. It boasts not only a charming semi-circular terrace, but also several pictures of its former royal occupant. I reproduce one of them for you. You will note that His Majesty was not a man for dressing down. The King and I would have agreed on that, I think – just as we would have been at one in our high opinion of the Hotel Caesar Augustus. 
I arrived on the island at the Marina Grande and was met by the hotel’s smart people-carrier. This whisked me up, past Capri town. Then, just at the approach to Anacapri, the driver turned right, into the grounds of the Caesar Augustus. Moments later I was inside, sipping a glass of lemonade – the hotel has its own lemon trees – and being greeted by the General Manager, Lucia Garau (pictured), whom I last encountered when she had to do with Il Pellicano at Porto Ercole. Before being shown to my room, I could not resist walking through to the huge terrace at the back of the hotel. I knew, of course, that the panorama would be wonderful, but I was still obliged to catch my breath. The island of Ischia, the distant mainland, the absurdly blue water, the clarity of vision so charmingly distorted by the heat… This was the beauty of serenity and harmony.
And, to my delight, it was there again from the balcony of room 204. I would recommend strongly that you secure an apartment with this life-enhancing panorama. Mine was a ‘junior suite- sea view’ and therefore 630-780€ a night, bed and breakfast for two, according to season. At about 16 feet by 13 feet, this was a bedroom of comfortable size, given a feeling of spaciousness by its 10 foot ceiling. Its terra cotta floor tiles, pristine white-painted walls and touches of green in the curtain and drapes created an air of cool sophistication – reinforced by the walnut writing bureau in a curvaceous 18th century style. The oil paintings on the walls showed views of Capri. It was of course, air-conditioned. 
A two-seater sofa provided comfortable seating and 3 table lamps and 2 wall lights gave decent lighting. As I was at the corner of the building, there was a second balcony and another delightful view – less dramatic than that from the first balcony, but showing more of the island.
In the white-tiled bathroom were two wash basins, a bidet, a properly placed shaving mirror and good white bathrobes and bath towels. Here I found one of the oddest shaped bath tubs I have ever encountered, with a stepped interior. It also had a jacuzzi facility (something which I never use). Initially, I was rather nervous of this machine, but – to my surprise – once filled with hot water, it proved comfortable. This was yet another lesson for me – how many do I need? – that I should not judge bath tubs before I try them. Each morning, I awoke to birdsong, drew back the curtains and looked out in wonder. And each morning my thought was the same: ‘This is how every day should begin.’ In only one respect could I find fault with this accommodation. There were only thin hand towels. There should also have been some thick, fluffy ones. I am sure Mr Signorini will soon rectify this.
Restaurant Manager, Domenico Grande (pictured), who ensured that I broke the fast each morning in a manner both comfortable and leisurely. In particular, he organized the excellent onion omelettes, which were brought hot from the kitchen. These, together with pots of coffee and the comestibles from the buffet – including sfogliatella (a Neapolitan speciality, consisting of a crisp pastry case filled with sweet ricotta cheese), crusty bread, marmalade (made from oranges grown in the hotel grounds), prosciutto, melon and fruit salad – ensured that I did not go hungry. 
In the evenings this demi-lune restaurant, named La Terrazza di Lucullo, was softly lit by candles. As the sun retired, through the windows the outline of Ischia slowly merged with the darkening sea, until both became one equal night. Within, Mr Grande ensured that all ran smoothly and well. His waiters, in black aprons, were courteous and efficient. Chef Giuseppe Resta from Puglia (pictured) takes ingredients of high quality and applies his considerable expertise to produce enjoyable, tasty dishes. 
He also likes dramatic, painterly presentation – indeed, if he were a painter, he would surely be a Fauvist. This was particularly evident in the finest dish I ate, pumpkin gnocchi with truffles and beetroot mornay. Served on a shining, black plate, this was a marvelous treat for my eyes as well as for my palate. Before this I had tucked into really good marinated anchovies, accompanied by sweet red onion marmalade – a marriage surely made in Heaven itself. I concluded my dinner with fillet of beef with a Taurasi sauce and then a baked Alaska (zuccotto di semifreddo cotto al forno). These four courses were 106€.
