FRANCE
PARIS
RESTAURANT LAURENT<
Why do I drive a Rolls-Royce? The answer lies in my childhood, when I was taught to appreciate the important things of life. Among them were history, luxury, elegance and efficiency (for the last of which, in this context, I should substitute smooth running). When I grew up, these were the attributes I wanted in a motor car. I found them in my Rolls-Royce – an elderly machine which is traditional, comfortable and beautiful, and which purrs along with but the sound of a whisper. These characteristics I also now look for in the best dining rooms, which is why I put on my black tie and went to the handsome pavilion on the Champs-Elysées which is the Restaurant Laurent.
This building began life as a hunting lodge. In the French Revolution it was a dance hall. In 1842 it was restored by the German-born architect Jacques-Ignace Hittorff, who had been commissioned by King Louis Philippe to sort out the Champs-Elysées. Then it became a restaurant, and its third owner gave it his own name, Laurent. Ever since, it has been one of the most famous and most respected restaurants in the French capital.
Great restaurants have their own characters. As soon as I stepped through the doors of Laurent, to be greeted by the Manager, Philippe Bourguignon, I knew that I liked this place. Tradition has conferred upon it an atmosphere which is both completely relaxed and reassuringly grand. It is like a family of ancient ancestry which is clearly delighted to welcome guests into its fine ancestral pile. Indeed, the master of the house has been here for some decades, for Mr Bourguignon arrived as the Chef Sommelier in 1977, and took over the management in 2002.
He presides with skill and panache over a setting of columns and pilasters, of silver candelabra and exquisite flower arrangements, of fine oil paintings and views of the lovely garden (wherein is a terrace for the summer and a fountain by Hittorff). I settled myself into a supportive armchair and surveyed the curved sweep of the room. The large table before me was covered with a beige cloth, on which stood glassware by Riedel and Spiegelau and a candlestick with two flickering white candles. All around waiters in suits and ties were purposefully about their business. I sipped a glass of bubbly and felt very much at home.
Chef Alain Pégouret (pictured) has been here since 2001, having previously worked with Joël Robuchon and at the Paris Ritz. He describes his food as “French cuisine with a contemporary twist”, and I am happy to concur with that description. I can also tell you another conspicuous characteristic of his menu: it is very, very appealing. Indeed, I would have been very content to have chosen any of the dishes listed. His portions are generous; his technique is precise; his approach to combining tastes and textures is admirable; and the ingredients which appear on his plates show him to be a man who demands the very best.
It was the Time of Truffles, so I began with the divine fungus (in its black form) – shaved liberally over lamb’s lettuce and melba toast – a confection so delicate and carefully judged that I smiled a very wide smile. Next came a glorious version of duck foie gras. The menu told me that it was hot and came with creamy smoked lentils and bacon. I was a little fearful of the bacon, for it can be a frightful bully and take over the entire dish. But I need not have worried. The word ‘superb’ went into my notes. The large piece of liver was set off wonderfully by the other ingredients, and the whole achieved a serenity which was almost sublime.
My meat was fillet of beef – sliced, tender and utterly delicious. It was served with a jus with herbs. It was also served with one of the gastronomic glories of France – pommes soufflés Laurent. If you have yet to experience this potato masterpiece, I suggest that you do so at your earliest convenience. These crisp, air-filled balls of potato are magnificent, and alone are worth the journey to Paris. I finished this marvellous meal with a hot cinnamon soufflé. (These four courses were 306 euros.)
In the cellar of the Restaurant Laurent are 30,000 bottles. Most, of course, are French, but I was pleased to see on the list of the Chef Sommelier, Patrick Lair, a good showing of German Rieslings, including the 2003 ‘Saarburger Rausch’ trockenbeerenauslese, Zilliken, from the Mosel, at 1,000€. Other bottles to catch my eye were: 1947 Margaux (1,380€), 2007 Romanée-Conti (3,075€) and 2006 DRC Montrachet (3,680€). Prices start at 38€ for a red Côteaux du Lyonnais (Clusel, 2009).
I was happy to go with the recommendations of the Assistant Sommelier, Mattieu Ghislain. He took me to the Rhone for both my white and my red. I drank a beautifully balanced marsanne (Vacqueyras, Domaine de la Monardière, Vache, 2008 - 65€), which was entirely right for the truffles, and a St-Joseph with a farmyard nose which, while still a little tight in the mouth, was just the wine for the beef (J.L.Chave, 2007 - 85€). This was good drinking.
In fact, everything was good about Laurent. I have therefore come to my conclusion. It is this. With its history, luxury, elegance and delicious food and wine, Laurent is the Rolls-Royce of Parisian restaurants. And, as you know, I like Rolls-Royces.
ADDRESSES
RESTAURANT LAURENT
41 avenue Gabriel, 75008 Paris, France.
Telephone +33 (0)1 42 25 00 39
Fax +33 (0)1 45 62 45 21
Email: info@le-laurent.com
www.le-laurent.com
Lunch: Monday to Friday
Dinner: Monday to Saturday
Set menu: 160 euros