FRANCE
JOIGNY
LA CÔTE ST-JACQUES
I made my first visit to La Côte St-Jacques twenty-one years ago. It was a remarkable experience. I knew, of course (who did not?), that the place had the top accolade which can be awarded to any restaurant. But I had eaten in dining rooms with three Michelin stars before, so I thought I knew what to expect. But I did not. I dressed, as I often did in those days when I toured France, in black tie. And I was so glad I made that modest sartorial effort, because it soon became apparent that everyone at this magnificent establishment was straining every sinew in the pursuit of culinary perfection. Everything exceeded my expectations. Little wonder, then, that I have been returning regularly ever since. Indeed, I would have been an idiot not to make these pilgrimages, having been given a glimpse of Heaven. To celebrate the 21st anniversary of that initial gastronomic counter, I again took my dress suit to northern Burgundy, as you may observe in the photograph of me with the Chef Patron. And once again I was shocked – for I encountered what must be, without doubt, one of the finest dishes in the world.
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